Timeline of Evening Dress Jackets

[OC Richard]

A thread on the topic of Sheriffmuir jackets got me looking through my collection of vintage Highland Dress catalogues.

A rough timeline emerged, which might be of interest.

There is a pattern of new styles first being thought of as being for youths and/or young men, and later becoming accepted for gentlemen's attire.

The background is that in the 19th century men's Highland Dress was almost infinitely variable and the categories "day" and "evening" dress not having absolute demarcation.

By far the most popular jacket from c1850 until the early years of the 20th century was the Doublet. It usually had the same collar and lapels as ordinary jackets of the time, the distinctive feature being the "Inverness" skirts around the bottom.

Highland Evening Dress became much more simple, sleek, and uniform in the early years of the 20th century, with new styles emerging and only the Doublet (now often called the Standard Doublet to differentiate it from the various new doublets) a holdover from the 19th century.

The first new style to emerge was the Coatee or Prince Charlie Coatee, of which was written in 1914:

"In place of the doublet some Scottish dresses have a coatee, or short coat, with abbreviated tails, like a morning coat. It is quite optional whether this is worn, or the doublet. Any form of the Coatee, however, is entirely modern..."

A glance through eight vintage Highland Dress catalogues shows the following. First the firm, then the date as best as it can be inferred, then the styles shown and/or listed in the same order as the catalogue, along with any comments appearing in the catalogue:

R G Lawrie c1926
1) "doublet"
2) "coatee"

Fraser Ross c1930
1) "Prince Charlie coatee"
2) "Doublet"
3) "Dress Argyle" (sic)
4) "Montrose" "A favourite style for youths, men also show a preference for its smart appearance."

Paisleys pre-1936
1) "Montrose" "suitable for 7 to 17 years."
2) "Strathmore" (standard Doublet) "for men, and young men from 16 years."
3) "Prince Charlie Coatee" "for gentlemen."

Anderson 1936
1) "the Coatee" "specially suited for a young man or an older man of slim figure. It is definitely less suitable for the stouter figure."
2) "the Doublet" "Is less popular than it once was, but it is particularly suitable for older men."
3) "the Kenmore Doublet" "A style of coat we designed." (It's nice, and rare, to have such a clear origin for a Highland jacket style.)

Rowans 1938
1) black Argyll "boys 5 to 15"
2) "coat" (a single-breasted Montrose) "boys of all ages over 6 years"
3) "regulation doublet" "most popular"
4) "coatee" "favourite with the younger set"
5) "coat" (a single-breasted Montrose, this time shown on an adult man) "increasingly popular in recent years"

Paisleys 1939
1) "Prince Charlie Coatee" "correct dress for gentlemen's evening wear."
2) "Montrose" "suitable 7 to 17 years"
3) "Deeside Evening Outfit" "for men, and young men from 16 years." (this was called "Strathmore" in their earlier catalogue, the Standard Doublet by another name.)

Anderson post-1953
1) "the coatee" "most popular"
2) "standard doublet" "suits the older man"
3) "Kenmore Doublet" "another favoured style" "good lines without unnecessary embellishment."
4) (not pictured) "Rannoch Doublet" "a smart double-breasted design"
5) (not pictured) "Appin Jacket" "a neat, short coat usually worn belted."

Forsyth 1950s
1) "standard doublet"
2) "Morar doublet" (a jacket identical to the Kenmore is illustrated)
3) "Montrose doublet" (shown both single-breasted and double-breasted)

As you can see the Sheriffmuir does not appear.