Timeline of Evening Dress Jackets

[OC Richard]

Where does the regulation doublet fit into all this?

The first use I have to hand of the term "regulation doublet" is the Rowans 1938 catalogue.

Throughout the 2nd half of the 19th century and into the beginning of the 20th century it was simply called "the doublet" (there being no others to differentiate from).

When things like the Kenmore Doublet were invented the old doublet was then often called the "standard doublet".

I don't know where the term "regulation doublet" came from or why it stuck or what regulation was being referred to- it's a purely civilian style so it couldn't be military regulations.

In any case "regulation doublet" "standard doublet" "old doublet" and simply "doublet" all refer to the same thing.

Here's a page from the Anderson 1936 catalogue showing the fairly recently invented "coatee" and the quite recently invented Kenmore Doublet. Note the coatee (Prince Charlie) is more dressed-up than is usual today with jabot and tartan waistcoat. Also note that the coatee is shown in green and blue but not black.



And here is the "doublet" which we call "regulation doublet" nowadays, the standard 19th century Highland jacket. Note his shoes are not the Mary Jane style, but are slip-on shoes with no strap.



This photo is excellent in showing (L-R) the fully trimmed civilian doublet (there was a fad for such trim around 1900), a plain civilian doublet, and two military-style doublets. Also nice that the four sporrans show three different cantle construction methods. Too bad we can't see their footwear better. (The fellow far right is wearing his shells backwards.)