The lonely but mighty box-pleat

[Phil]

I saw the last part of a program on Balmoral on TV on Monday evening, and there was a fair bit about the way the kilt was revived by the interest of Queen Victoria, and tartan fabrics and carpets were ordered for the furnishing of the castle the Prince Consort designed for her. The impression given was that the Scots were glad to revive what they could of their scottishness for a queen who regarded herself a Stuart chieftain.

It was interesting to see that men competed in the dancing at Games.

I must see if it available to watch again.

The programme is on iPlayer here - http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00mqg2c/Balmoral/ - if you want to watch the whole thing. It was interesting although much was just a re-hash of snippets from other programmes. It came across very strongly that the likes of Edward VII, and Edward VIII, or at least Mrs Simpson never really took to the place as neither did Princess Diana and the shot of Cherie Blair yawning was a real classic. There has also been speculation that Charles has discussed giving the whole place to the Nation if and when he takes over. Nearby Birkhall is his bolt-hole in the highlands of choice.
But enough of Balmoral and "Balmorality" as described in the programme. Of course anyone is at liberty to redesign anything according to their taste and requirements. I am sure that the lightness of a pleated garment together with cost savings of using less material is bound to be an attractive option for many, particularly in warmer climates. As to soldiers' kilts, knowing our Ministry of Defence and their notorious reluctance to spend money on the well-being and safety of our troops, which has been the subject of much media attention in recent years, penny-pinching of this kind comes as no surprise whatsoever.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I am sure that the lightness of a pleated garment together with cost savings of using less material is bound to be an attractive option for many, particularly in warmer climates.

Yes, and that is precisely what happened. As I said, the modern day revival of the four yard box pleated kilt can be attributed to Bob Martin, who spent most all of his kilt making career in and around Greenville, SC - a much warmer climate that Scotland! As he recounts it, most of his clients were requesting light weight wool for their kilts, because they were afraid the heavy weight would be too hot to wear.

However, as a kilt maker, Bob knew the heavy weight wool to be of superior quality. He was wondering how to convince people living in warmer climates that the heavy weight wool was really the way to go. His friend, Scottish anthropologist and Highland dress enthusiast Michiel MacDonald (and incidentally father of our own resident tartan scholar and hand weaver, Peter MacDonald) recommended that Bob offer the older style of kilt which was box pleated and made from only four yards of cloth. This way he could offer a kilt which has all the advantages of the heavy weight wool, but still be a lighter garment overall.

I have to say it works perfectly for that function!

As to soldiers' kilts, knowing our Ministry of Defence and their notorious reluctance to spend money on the well-being and safety of our troops, which has been the subject of much media attention in recent years, penny-pinching of this kind comes as no surprise whatsoever.

I think you have it wrong here. I don't see how the continued use of box pleated kilts by certain regiments (such as the Camerons and the Seaforths) can be seen as "penny pinching" of any kind. Take a look at the photos of modern-day military box pleated kilts posted a few posts above. These more contemporary kilts were made with a higher amount of cloth and if anything would have cost more to produce than their knife pleated counterparts.

[seanachie]

Yes, and that is precisely what happened. As I said, the modern day revival of the four yard box pleated kilt can be attributed to Bob Martin, who spent most all of his kilt making career in and around Greenville, SC - a much warmer climate that Scotland! As he recounts it, most of his clients were requesting light weight wool for their kilts, because they were afraid the heavy weight would be too hot to wear.

Now I have no empirical data to back me up, but I do not find the box pleats cold in chilly weather either. Believe or not there is snow and cold in southern California in places like Idyllwylld (sp?) and Julian. So I have worn my box pleats in high 90 degree weather and freezing weather. (note I did not say sub zero) With accompanying layered clothing on top and decent hose below I have been comfortable in the lower temperatures and amply comfortable at higher. Someone more knowledgeable than myself may be able to add something about whether worsted wool contributes to this somehow.