Black Cap Toe Oxfords

**Father Bill** · 14th September 11, 07:02 PM

I'd be asking that they be made of topgrain, fine-grained hard finish leather in order to take one heckuva shine. I'd also be asking for four eyelets in order to use the military zig-zag lacing style.

**Mickey** · 14th September 11, 07:17 PM

I second the padre's notes. Get the best leather you can get that will require the least amount of wax to fill the pores. And get what your lady likes to see you in.

Personally, I don't like cap toes. They remind me of aviation/jump boots, so I can't really accept them as a dress look. That's MY weird hang up about them. However, if my wife were to give me these choices, I would pick #2 or #4. They have the more classic style of stitching. The rest have a look that is just a bit too... sleek, space age, want-to-be-trendy?... thing going on.

But then again, I'm not a fashion kind of guy. I let my wife pick out my clothes and shoes... then complain about the cost!

**CMcG** · 14th September 11, 07:21 PM

Originally Posted by Father Bill

I'd be asking that they be made of topgrain, fine-grained hard finish leather in order to take one heckuva shine. I'd also be asking for four eyelets in order to use the military zig-zag lacing style.

Good call on the leather because I want to be able to see my face in them once I finish shining them up!

As for the eyelets, must it be four or could it be just an even number? And could you explain that style of lacing or point me to one on the web?

**Spartan Tartan** · 14th September 11, 08:02 PM

All leather soles. I had a pair similar to those in #4 custom made for my wedding...the leather soles are great for dancing, not so much for traction. Then again, I got them to dance. I still wear them whenever I can, but they're a bit snug with kilt hose.

**CMcG** · 14th September 11, 08:19 PM

Originally Posted by Spartan Tartan

All leather soles. I had a pair similar to those in #4 custom made for my wedding...the leather soles are great for dancing, not so much for traction. Then again, I got them to dance. I still wear them whenever I can, but they're a bit snug with kilt hose.

I see that Zee's offers Dainite soles as an option though I think their default is leather soles. Thinner = more formal, right?

And you've just reminded me that I should bring kilt hose when I go for a fitting... if they are made a bit bigger, I can put insoles in when I wear them with regular socks. Thanks!

**pascs** · 15th September 11, 11:24 AM

Originally Posted by CMcG

I see that Zee's offers Dainite soles as an option though I think their default is leather soles. Thinner = more formal, right?

And you've just reminded me that I should bring kilt hose when I go for a fitting... if they are made a bit bigger, I can put insoles in when I wear them with regular socks. Thanks!

I have some beautiful pairs of shoes like those in your pics, I'm not sure about thinner=more formal. Mine have 3 layers of leather on the sole, can look formal with a suit but great with jeans and make a lovely sound on a wooden dance floor

I'd certainly take your kilt hose when going for fitting since I'd think you normally wear quite thin socks. The shoemaker may also be able to make an insole for use with normal socks.

Anyway enjoy, great shoes really make an outfit

**CMcG** · 17th September 11, 06:20 AM

Apologies for my delayed reply; I've been out sight-seeing

For some reason I can't multi-quote more than two people in a thread, so I'll have to post over top of myself a few times here...

Originally Posted by Father Bill

<snip>
Hope that helps.

Yes Father, the diagram definitely helps. Thanks!

As for the number of eyelets, your suggestion of four over six is a little different compared to the pictures that I've been looking at... is that what you have on your shoes or is that a wish?

Anyone else have an opinion on number of eyelets?

**CMcG** · 17th September 11, 06:24 AM

Originally Posted by pascs

I have some beautiful pairs of shoes like those in your pics, I'm not sure about thinner=more formal. Mine have 3 layers of leather on the sole, can look formal with a suit but great with jeans and make a lovely sound on a wooden dance floor

<snip>

Originally Posted by Father Bill

<snip>
... and a further thought just occurred to me. At 215 lbs, I hate having thin soles. If I step on a stone, I want to crush it, not have it come up through the sole into my foot. For that reason, I'd ask for a thick sole, or even a double one. I have often taken brand new shoes straight to the cobbler and asked him to add a second sole, and then put the heel back on. It's a wonderful feeling once you get used to it and looks rather manly.

My intention for these shoes is to reserve them for dressing up, so I hope I won't have to crush any rocks with them

Personally I like a thick rubber sole for both cushion and grip. The reason I'm under the impression that a thick sole (including extra leather) would be less formal is the general aesthetic of refined elegance that goes with increasing formality. It's also a question of tradition: thick, rugged soles for outdoors and thin, smooth soles for indoors.

I'm still toying with the idea of a rubber heel for a bit of traction but maybe a partial rubber heel would be enough. And those Blakey's must make quite the sound though I'm sure they protect the shoe very well!

**Father Bill** · 17th September 11, 06:27 AM

Originally Posted by CMcG

Apologies for my delayed reply; I've been out sight-seeing

For some reason I can't multi-quote more than two people in a thread, so I'll have to post over top of myself a few times here...

Yes Father, the diagram definitely helps. Thanks!

As for the number of eyelets, your suggestion of four over six is a little different compared to the pictures that I've been looking at... is that what you have on your shoes or is that a wish?

Anyone else have an opinion on number of eyelets?

All my shoes have four. (That's four on each side of the tongue!) It's probably a matter of taste, but six start to look like combat boots to me, and it's not my image of myself.

Try the lacing; you may like it. It takes a while to figure out how to tighten them and still keep them even, but once you get it, it's not all that difficult.

As far as the rocks go, I'm even referring to something someone has inadvertently dropped on the dance floor.

**Father Bill** · 15th September 11, 05:03 AM

Originally Posted by CMcG

Good call on the leather because I want to be able to see my face in them once I finish shining them up!

As for the eyelets, must it be four or could it be just an even number? And could you explain that style of lacing or point me to one on the web?

I knew somebody would ask me that!

It can be any even number but to me, six eyelet looks excessive in a dress shoe and two eyelet seems a little unusual.

Here's the diagram I drew:

The idea is that only the crossing bars are seen thus keeping it very, very neat. In addition, it means that there are less creases created on the surface of the leather. Further, it's a safety item because if your foot were caught, it would be easy to release it with a single knife stroke. That's why the Canadian military uses (or at least used to - I don't know any more) this style. As a bonus, when you're in a hurry and need to touch up the shine, it's really easy to get past the laces.

Hope that helps.

... and a further thought just occurred to me. At 215 lbs, I hate having thin soles. If I step on a stone, I want to crush it, not have it come up through the sole into my foot. For that reason, I'd ask for a thick sole, or even a double one. I have often taken brand new shoes straight to the cobbler and asked him to add a second sole, and then put the heel back on. It's a wonderful feeling once you get used to it and looks rather manly.