As Brian said, twill was the most common weave for C18th cloth and we know from extant specimens that it was used for clothing, plaids and hose. Plain weave is less dense and is unlikely to have been widely used for robust/working/outdoor clothes. I've only ever seen herringbone as part of a selvedge mark or pattern and not across the whole warp of a piece of tartan and by diamond I assume you mean what I know as goose-eye? I've only seen a couple of pieces of C19th tartan blankets woven with this technique and I very much doubt that it was widespread then let alone much before.
Originally Posted by Khan
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