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  1. #23
    Join Date
    18th October 09
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    That's so cool there, Matt!

    As usual I take "the long view" of things, and I'm not a fan of the standup-collar formal jackets. Why all of these standup-collar jackets suddenly appeared in the early 20th century who can say, but throughout the last three-quarters of the 19th century and into the beginning of the 20th century nearly all civilian Highland jackets had ordinary collars with lapels, worn with ordinary shirts of the period and ordinary neckties. The standard jacket was the type which evolved into what we now call the "Regulation Doublet". In the old days it was simply called a Doublet.

    Then in Highland Dress catalogues in the 1920s a suite of new jackets appeared, the Montrose, the Kenmore, the Prince Charlie. These are spoken of in old catalogues as being recent inventions and being suitable for young, fashionable men while the traditional Doublet was spoken of as being appropriate for older men. At the same time lace jabots became popular, something very rarely seen in the previous three-quarters of a century. (When did the Sherriffmuir appear? It's not in any of my catalogues from the 1920s and 1930s.)

    Perhaps WWI had just concluded and the military-style standing collar was viewed as being fashionable? Or people were nostalgic about the jackets of the early 19th century with their very high standing collars? Who can say.

    I myself prefer the c1840-1920 look of the Doublet, with ordinary collar and lapels, over these 20th century jackets with militaryesque standing collars.

    Here's an old thread I started, back before I had collected a load of old Highland Dress catalogues... now I know that the style of jacket in question was called the "doublet", but I still don't know what the "Celtic" jacket mentioned in that old Henderson catalogue might have been.

    http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-jacket-55129/
    Last edited by OC Richard; 4th February 13 at 06:22 AM.
    Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte

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