Inside out Kilts

**RReid** · 25th November 14, 12:49 PM

Click image for larger version.

Name: kilt outside.jpg
Views: 88
Size: 148.3 KB
ID: 23291

One thing that comes up from time to time here at Celtic Corner, that drives our kilt maker potty is inside out kilts! We find that there are people making kilts using the backside of the tartan. For those not aware, the diagonal of the weave should go from top left to bottom right of the apron, when looking at it and the selvedge at the bottom. I've attached a photo for reference. This may seem like a small detail, but actually is quite a big deal, as the weaver is making the tartan with a right(face) side and wrong side(back).

**davidlpope** · 25th November 14, 02:43 PM

Is this true for all mills? I thought that one of the mill's (Lochcarron's?) twill deliberately ran the "wrong" way...

**YOJiMBO20** · 25th November 14, 02:59 PM

Really? I'm pretty sure most kilts I've seen have been the other way. I'd check mine, but it's currently at the tailor.

**The Wizard of BC** · 25th November 14, 03:00 PM

Which side of the fabric is the 'right' or 'up' face is a product of the loom used to weave it. Those mills using rapier looms such as Lochcarron and Marton Mills will have the twill lines running from lower right to upper left as it is seen on the loom. This results in it going the opposite direction when rotated to make a kilt.

**tpa** · 25th November 14, 03:23 PM

I have two "proper" kilts, made in Scotland by well established firms, in one the twill line goes one way, one the other. These threads are relevant: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...t-twill-57594/, this one: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-fabric-14400/ and this: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...08/index3.html.

**Mike in Dayton** · 25th November 14, 03:33 PM

Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC

Which side of the fabric is the 'right' or 'up' face is a product of the loom used to weave it. Those mills using rapier looms such as Lochcarron and Marton Mills will have the twill lines running from lower right to upper left as it is seen on the loom. This results in it going the opposite direction when rotated to make a kilt.

Standards do change don't they. Based on what Steve presented in the last kilt class I attended it is not as easy today to say the lines have to run a certain way. Looks like whoever designed the Rapier looms changed the rules a bit.

**RReid** · 25th November 14, 04:25 PM

Should be just the one direcion.

**OC Richard** · 25th November 14, 08:20 PM

When I took an Elsie Stuehmeyer kiltmaking class she explained that it varies from mill to mill. She closely examined each piece of tartan and told us which side was the top side.

My fabric, from Lochcarron, was backwards to most of the other kilts in the class.

**Calgacus** · 26th November 14, 01:43 AM

My Macpherson kilt is made from Lochcarron cloth woven on a rapier loom and the diagonal runs top right to bottom left of the apron. My MacKenzie kilt from an unknown weaver but with a proper woven selvedge has the diagonal running top left to bottom right of the apron. "Left" and "right" referring to the wearer's left & right, not the observer's.

I can see why cloth from a rapier loom might have a 'front' and 'back' as the threads are all trimmed off on the 'back' side, but why would cloth with a woven selvedge have a 'front' and 'back'?