Jacobite era tartans still in use today

[figheadair]

Interesting! figheadair, could you give us some details on the MacQuarrie tartan being dated to mid-18th century? The references in the Scottish Register of Tartans don't seem to go back further than early 19th.

Both the Cockburn (1810) and Highland Society of London (1816) collections contain samples of MacQuarrie, not those generally worn today, that are pieces typical of rural woven cloth rather than Wilsons' material which makes up the majority of both collections. The patterns differ but in both cases the rustic specimens are woven with hand-spun singles (non-plied yarn) and have herringbone selvedges. The material and setting in both specimens is consistent with Highland cloth of the mid-18th century hence their inclusion in my list. Here's the HSL specimen.

[CMcG]

Both the Cockburn (1810) and Highland Society of London (1816) collections contain samples of MacQuarrie, not those generally worn today, that are pieces typical of rural woven cloth rather than Wilsons' material which makes up the majority of both collections. The patterns differ but in both cases the rustic specimens are woven with hand-spun singles (non-plied yarn) and have herringbone selvedges. The material and setting in both specimens is consistent with Highland cloth of the mid-18th century hence their inclusion in my list. Here's the HSL specimen.

That's some deep tartan knowledge. After looking up those sources it appears that in the early 1800s, the Highland Society of London (of which Cockburn was a member), actually went to the clan chiefs and asked what their tartan was. The last chief of the Clan MacQuarrie died in 1818 and, the chiefdom having been vacant for nearly 200 years, this is an important historical point for clansmen. The most commonly seen MacQuarrie tartan is actually quite different from the one authorized by the last chief.

[figheadair]

That's some deep tartan knowledge. After looking up those sources it appears that in the early 1800s, the Highland Society of London (of which Cockburn was a member), actually went to the clan chiefs and asked what their tartan was. The last chief of the Clan MacQuarrie died in 1818 and, the chiefdom having been vacant for nearly 200 years, this is an important historical point for clansmen. The most commonly seen MacQuarrie tartan is actually quite different from the one authorized by the last chief.

Gen. David Stewart of Garth was the driver to gather the Society's tartan collection. He was taken by the idea of clan tartans even though he and the majority of chiefs had no idea of what they wore in the 18th century. As a result, many chiefs went to Wilsons to ask them what they should be wearing. Wilsons' comments on a number of tartans supports the recent adoption of tartans by particular clans. The MacQuarrie sample is one of a very small number that were gathered in the Highlands rather than supplied by a commercial weaving firm..

[Tarheel]

This thread peaked my interest in the Colquhoun tartan. I found this site: http://www.helensburgh-heritage.co.u...ons&Itemid=461

I don't see any mention of a surviving swatch but the story was compelling enough to post.

[figheadair]

This thread peaked my interest in the Colquhoun tartan. I found this site: http://www.helensburgh-heritage.co.u...ons&Itemid=461

I don't see any mention of a surviving swatch but the story was compelling enough to post.

An interesting article. I know the author; we agree on some things but not others; I'm driven by evidence. This is the key phrase ". The pattern was listed with Wilsons as “superfine” and was therefore likely to have been regarded as a clan tartan prior to the end of the eighteenth century."

Superfine was a quality of cloth woven by Wilsons of Bannockburn c1800-40. Wilsons gave no evidence to support the idea that they regarded thks a clan tartan. The author of the article believes that there clan tartans in the mid-18th century; an idea I fundanemtally disagree with. There is no evidence for the Colquhoun tartan before c1800.

[Tarheel]

Knowing my family and their ability to meld into circumstances that will support the survival of the whole, I agree there may not have been a singular or defining tartan to bind many versatile groups under one banner or Laird. Without the evidence of cloth or portraits, I agree with the speculation on the longevity of an official tartan of the Clan. Yet the Colquhoun survive and are proud of our heritage. Thanks for your opinion and observations figheadair.

[Damion]

Is there a summarised collection of this information somewhere? Like a website or book.

Info like weight of cloth, surviving pieces, differences in weights of tartan used for different garments, preferred colours?

[CMcG]

Gen. David Stewart of Garth was the driver to gather the Society's tartan collection. He was taken by the idea of clan tartans even though he and the majority of chiefs had no idea of what they wore in the 18th century. As a result, many chiefs went to Wilsons to ask them what they should be wearing. Wilsons' comments on a number of tartans supports the recent adoption of tartans by particular clans. The MacQuarrie sample is one of a very small number that were gathered in the Highlands rather than supplied by a commercial weaving firm..

Yes, I've heard about the rush for chiefs to get a clan tartan, particularly before King George IV's big visit to Scotland in 1822. Sort of like a gold rush, but with tartan—everybody racing to stake their claim. It is ironic that a majority of chiefs didn't know what their clan tartan was and had to ask the weavers, but amazing how powerful the idea was and how strongly people have held on to it.

It is very cool to find out that the HSL MacQuarrie sample came from a rural, Highland source. I wear the more common MacQuarrie, but now I've got a serious hankering for the Jacobite era version! Matt Newsome has a MacQuarrie kilt in the Cockburn sett, which appears to be quite similar to the HSL sample, but not quite the same.

My MacQuarrie modern:



Matt's Cockburn collection MacQuarrie:

[OC Richard]

It would be nice to have a gallery of all the 18th century portraits which have been mined for tartans that are currently woven.

I'll make a little start...

The green/green/white MacDonald (I saw about 30 kilts in this tartan yesterday... it's worn by a local youth pipe band)



There are, what, four different red tartans in this painting? How many have been reconstructed from the painting and woven?



The Piper to the Laird of Grant. Has this tartan been woven? That light red looks like binding.



The Champion.

[KD Burke]

Interesting paintings. I'm particularly struck by "The Champion"'s weapon. It appears to be a strange cross between a broadsword and a cavalry saber. I'm sure that a frugal and adaptive people like the highlanders would be able to find a use for a 'misplaced' saber, but it's not the first think that comes to mind.

I wonder if this was a bit of dramatic license on the part of the artist? If so, might not the tartan also be fancified?