Newly finished comtemporary

**kilted firefighter** · 5th October 15, 07:03 AM

Thanks for the replies ratspike and Barb T. Barb is correct i did not dart pleats but an otherwise flat panel of fabric. I have the advantage and disadvantage of having no previous experience with this type of garment, so I just did what I thought would work. It hangs really well to the contours of my waist. To

**Barb T** · 5th October 15, 07:22 AM

Originally Posted by kilted firefighter

Thanks for the replies ratspike and Barb T. Barb is correct i did not dart pleats but an otherwise flat panel of fabric. I have the advantage and disadvantage of having no previous experience with this type of garment, so I just did what I thought would work. It hangs really well to the contours of my waist. To

So I totally misunderstood what you are doing. I thought you were putting darts into the panel that you are using above the pleats. I'm not sure, though, how a completely flat panel with no darts would actually fit so well.

**The Wizard of BC** · 5th October 15, 08:03 AM

If I read this correctly this kilt utilizes a yolk in the back just like what is used on a pair of jeans.

This is exactly how Terry Vargas made his "Bear Kilts". So of you may not know about Terry. He was the first person to use Marton Mills P/V for kilts. He is the forerunner of what today we think of as the Casual Style kilt.

I'm not exactly sure of the date when Terry started making kilts but they were before USA Kilts, before Freedom Kilts, and possibly before SportKilts.

Terry took his idea from blue jeans. He created a yolk to which he attached his pleats. A totally revolutionary idea at the time as no one had ever done anything like what Terry achieved. Totally new and revolutionary. Terry goes down in history as one of the very first, if not the first, to break the mold of the Traditional kilt leading the way to a lot of those of us who came afterwards.

**Barb T** · 5th October 15, 08:20 AM

True, but I don't think it can be done with just one flat piece of fabric. All the yokes I've seen have a seam down the middle that functions essentially as a dart.

**kilted firefighter** · 5th October 15, 09:48 AM

Barb is correct. When I described the panel as "flat" that was before sewing the darts in. Since I have no experience with this type of sewing I also lack the proper vocabulary to describe what I did. What I understand now as being called a yoke actually has darts in the center rear, half way between that dart and the side/ hip and at the hip and it wraps part way around the front to the apron. The total measurement of the yoke equals 2/3 of the waist measurement at the top and 2/3 of the hip measurement at the bottom creating somewhat of a cone shape.