An Early Highland Revival Coat

**figheadair** · 30th December 16, 06:58 AM

Some of the rabble may remember my search for a late 18th century tartan coat - discussed in this closed thread.

I'm pleased to say that I tracked it down and have now written it up - An early Highland Revival Coat c1780-85

**IsaacW** · 30th December 16, 07:02 AM

Yet another awesome article!

**Tarheel** · 31st December 16, 07:23 AM

Interesting points about the design (possible disfigurement of the owner). I do like the attempt to align the horizontal stripe in the back (even if the vertical is strange). Great job on your work as always.

**Luke MacGillie** · 1st January 17, 09:37 AM

Im happy to see that this was written up. Did you happen to get a coat pattern from the Owner as well?

**Lady Grey** · 1st January 17, 05:09 PM

Great Article.
I'm just wondering if you got any information about, thread, stitches used, internal facings, understructure, etc, etc?
Or was the Tartan the main area of study?

Lovely to see.

**Orvis** · 1st January 17, 10:10 PM

Peter - Great article as usual! As you mentioned, the amount of red in the sett probably indicates that the coat/waistcoat were made for a well-to-do person. From the photos, it appears to me that the style of 1780's-1790's coat wasn't that different from the 1740's Culloden coat that you once wrote about. This coat has longer tails and a collar, but otherwise appears the same in cut and methodology. IMHO, it was obviously made by a town tailor.

I look forward to reading more of your work in the future!

Gerry

**figheadair** · 2nd January 17, 01:11 AM

Originally Posted by Luke MacGillie

Im happy to see that this was written up. Did you happen to get a coat pattern from the Owner as well?

No, I don't think the pattern has ever been copied. No doubt someone could do if they happened to live reasonably close. The coat is in MA.

Originally Posted by Lady Grey

Great Article.
I'm just wondering if you got any information about, thread, stitches used, internal facings, understructure, etc, etc?
Or was the Tartan the main area of study?

The tartan was my principal area of interest, that and identifying the owner if possible. As the coat is undamaged there is no detail of the understructure. The seam strictching is hidden inside but I do have overview pictures of the inside of the coat and waistcoat, plus some close-ups of some of the stitching where the sleeve joins the main lining and the outsite of the pockets. Were it is visible the stitching appears to be either a simple running stictch or in the case of the internal sleeves, whip stitching.

Originally Posted by Orvis

Peter - Great article as usual! As you mentioned, the amount of red in the sett probably indicates that the coat/waistcoat were made for a well-to-do person. From the photos, it appears to me that the style of 1780's-1790's coat wasn't that different from the 1740's Culloden coat that you once wrote about. This coat has longer tails and a collar, but otherwise appears the same in cut and methodology. IMHO, it was obviously made by a town tailor.
Gerry

Gerry, comparing the this coat with the Culloden era ones there are a numer of obvious differences beyond the length of the tails:

Culloden Coat - small stand-up collar, epaulettes, no pockets, typical mid-C18th military cuffs (called Crail style in modern Highland dress).

HR Coat - large fold-over collar, no epaulettes, two large hip pockets, typical civilian two button cuff.

I agree that the HR Coat would have been made by a town tailor, most likely, Edinburgh but Glasgow or one of the other larger cities could also have been the source.