Oxfords with kilt

[Graeme H]

Lovely to see Mr Ashton dropping serious knowledge regarding shoe construction!

It all comes down to formality really - the more broguing on a shoe, the more casual it can be considered. Generally full brogues are made from grain leather and typically have a heavy "storm-welted" sole. More and more wingtips are showing up in calf leathers and with formal construction but generally are used fairly casually. Plain toecaps are the most formal shoe regardless of whether they are Oxford or Derby construction, I tend to recommend a Derby if a customer has a particularly wide foot as the open lacing is perhaps a little more comfortable.

I've learnt something today; I wasn't aware that there was any disdain for the Ghillie brogue! I suppose I'm so used to seeing it (I believe it to be the only option for those hiring Highland dress in the UK, unless a gentleman has his own shoes), and although I tell customers to consider a highly polished semi-brogue or plain toecap with Highland wear for formal events, there is no shortage of requests for the Ghillie.

I'll do a shoecare post at some point in the near future for those that wish to see the glacage process for shining a formal pair of shoes.

[RichardtheLarge]

Lovely to see Mr Ashton dropping serious knowledge regarding shoe construction!

It all comes down to formality really - the more broguing on a shoe, the more casual it can be considered. Generally full brogues are made from grain leather and typically have a heavy "storm-welted" sole. More and more wingtips are showing up in calf leathers and with formal construction but generally are used fairly casually. Plain toecaps are the most formal shoe regardless of whether they are Oxford or Derby construction, I tend to recommend a Derby if a customer has a particularly wide foot as the open lacing is perhaps a little more comfortable.

I've learnt something today; I wasn't aware that there was any disdain for the Ghillie brogue! I suppose I'm so used to seeing it (I believe it to be the only option for those hiring Highland dress in the UK, unless a gentleman has his own shoes), and although I tell customers to consider a highly polished semi-brogue or plain toecap with Highland wear for formal events, there is no shortage of requests for the Ghillie.

I'll do a shoecare post at some point in the near future for those that wish to see the glacage process for shining a formal pair of shoes.

IME, rules of formality for broguing exist in Englishwear but not in highlandwear. Maybe this is because broguing is an iconically Scottish convention, but both ghillie brogues and the Queen Anne buckle shoe are fully wingtipped and brogued and are considered the most formal kilt shoes available. Thistle shoes sells both styles and they are as brogued as shoes can be.

One exception might be the single buckle Jacobite shoe I occasionally see around, but it doesn’t look nearly as formal as the Queen Anne buckle brogue to my eyes (maybe because of the huge squared toe). They don’t sell them in my size, regardless, so I went with the Queen Anne.

[Downunder Kilt]

For information on the metal plates on the toes and heels you may find this site of some use http://www.blakeys-segs.co.uk/

[Graeme H]

IME, rules of formality for broguing exist in Englishwear but not in highlandwear. Maybe this is because broguing is an iconically Scottish convention, but both ghillie brogues and the Queen Anne buckle shoe are fully wingtipped and brogued and are considered the most formal kilt shoes available. Thistle shoes sells both styles and they are as brogued as shoes can be.

One exception might be the single buckle Jacobite shoe I occasionally see around, but it doesn’t look nearly as formal as the Queen Anne buckle brogue to my eyes (maybe because of the huge squared toe). They don’t sell them in my size, regardless, so I went with the Queen Anne.

Very interesting insight, thanks for the knowledge!