Timeline of Evening Dress Jackets

[OC Richard]

Almost a Sheriffmuir doublet in a 1909 catalogue. Only the stand-up collar may be missing. However, it's simply described as a doublet and vest.

And another from about the same date.

Doublets like that appear in the 19th century too, the standard Doublet with each front edge decorated with a row of nonfunctional buttons. I posted an enlarged photo so we can see the one buttonhole at the top.

Doublets, Argylls, and non-Highland jackets in the late 19th and early 20th centuries were often cut to be buttoned only at the top and for the front edges of the jacket to sweep open. Since only the top button was capable of being buttoned, they decided to add some bling by putting nonfunctional buttons down both sides.

Doublets in the 19th century had bewildering variety, but they all shared the so-called Inverness skirts or tashes which seems to be the defining thing.

Here's a 19th century doublet designed to be buttoned only at the top and swing open- you couldn't button it shut.
It buttons so high the lapels are quite reduced.



Here's a similar doublet but with nonfunctional buttons down both front edges.



Here's one with nonfunctional buttons down both sides; I can't tell what sort of collar it has. (BTW the photo is American, with the distinctive five-lobe sporran cantle seen in America in the mid-19th century.)

[JohnE]

Here's a similar doublet but with nonfunctional buttons down both front edges.

The button only at the top is an interesting bit of early fashion. I wonder how that came in to being. Does anyone have some historical info on ths style?

[Guthrumironhead]

The button only at the top is an interesting bit of early fashion. I wonder how that came in to being. Does anyone have some historical info on ths style?

It almost mimics late 18th century military dress, taking artistic license into account of course.

[JohnE]

It almost mimics late 18th century military dress, taking artistic license into account of course.

I can see that. A person has to wonder why though.

[Allan Thomson]

I can see that. A person has to wonder why though.

Because military fashions and civilian fashions interlink. The cut away coat style was worn by civilians too - just in a more civilian style...

[Allan Thomson]

It almost mimics late 18th century military dress, taking artistic license into account of course.

Mid late as by the late the coatee style had come in amongst British troops.

Also the style depicted closed using hooks and eyes rather than buttons. Although I understand the lapels could be buttuned across at the mid point if required.

[OC Richard]

It almost mimics late 18th century military dress...

Yes similar in the upper part of the opening came together and the lower part hung open, but different in construction and profile.

The 18th coat had lapels which were buttoned back. Earlier on the two sides hung down more or less straight down, but as the century progressed it became fashionable for the lower portion to hang open. The front edges of the jacket formed curves )( coming closest together around the heart.

A late 18th century military coat with lapels so strongly curved that it almost certainly couldn't be buttoned up.



This degenerated into uniform tunics like this, with false lapels of impossible shape



A late 18th century civilian coat, with functional buttons, though due to the cut it probably couldn't be buttoned all the way down, but was designed to hang open




The mid-19th century jacket was buttoned together near the top, hanging open in fairly straight lines /\

What's interesting about Highland jackets is that you see various types being worn side-by-side at the same period, ones with steeply angled fronts only possible to button at the top and ones more or less straight-sided with functional buttons, which could be buttoned shut all the way down.

Here's ones you can button all the way up







And here are angled-open fronts

[pbutts]

Richard-

Are you familiar with the Internet Archive — http://www.archive.org ?
i would think they would be interested in your collection of photos and catalogs. It would be great to have them all in one place?

[Profane James]

Here's a 19th century doublet designed to be buttoned only at the top and swing open- you couldn't button it shut.
It buttons so high the lapels are quite reduced.

I have admired this picture and style since I first saw it - btw, first saw it posted here, and by OCRichard!
While the flashy buttons are a little much, I think I could ‘casual’ this particular style up nicely.

[McMurdo]

Both thet velvet doublet and the horse hair sporran date to 1911. Just thought it might be a good addition to the thread