Strange tartan? (Highlander Gray)

[YOJiMBO20]

On one of the Facebook buy/sell groups someone posted this kilt and I mentioned that it looked like it was made of cheap fabric and that the tartan looked off because the weft has a lighter dark block than the warp does

The seller got offended that I would even suggest that it was cheap and that’s just how the tartan is and that he got it from a kilt shop in Scotland. Then someone who supposedly makes kilts posted that she didn’t see anything wrong with the tartan either.

So I guess my question is, Rabble, are there any tartans you know of that are different in the warp and weft? Or is this just some tat that someone is trying to sell as quality? I’m not interested in purchasing, I just need the justification.

[The Wizard of BC]

I recognize the leather logo patch in the center back. Here is a close up of what it looks like.



This is from a kilt purchased in Scotland, in 2008, for £50.00.

Notice that this is a machine sewn kilt.

And yes, the Welsh designs are different warpwise from weftwise. In fact this looks a lot like the Welsh "Spirit of Glyndwr Grey (National)" from the Wales Tartan Center. Fabric woven in Wales.

But neither "Spirit of Glyndwr" nor "Highlander Gray" are listed with The Scottish Register of Tartan under those names.

[figheadair]

And yes, the Welsh designs are different warpwise from weftwise. In fact this looks a lot like the Welsh "Spirit of Glyndwr Grey (National)" from the Wales Tartan Center. Fabric woven in Wales.

But neither "Spirit of Glyndwr" nor "Highlander Gray" are listed with The Scottish Register of Tartan under those names.

And therein lies one of the fundamental problems with the Register, unless someone is prepared to pay to have their design on the Register than most post-2007 designs are not included on it. The STA tries to keep up with all the new designs appearing in the wild. That includes some of the designs from the Welsh Tartan Centre but many of their Welsh name designs do not confirm to what is generally accepted as tartan and would not be accepted by either the STA or the SRT.

In this particular case, the design is Slanj (Grey), a corporate tartan for the Edinburgh firm of the same name. Slanj have most of their material woven by Marton Mill (who sell if as Grey Highlander) but the cloth in this kilt looks cheaper and I'd be surprised if it were theirs.

[Tomo]

In this particular case, the design is Slanj (Grey), a corporate tartan for the Edinburgh firm of the same name. Slanj have most of their material woven by Marton Mill (who sell if as Grey Highlander) but the cloth in this kilt looks cheaper and I'd be surprised if it were theirs. Given the label, it might be a knock-off by the Welsh Tartan Centre.

I'm fairly familiar with Slanj (their HQ is in Glasgow BTW, although they do have a branch just of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh) and I have had bespoke items made by them in the past, good quality and would recommend them (the had the licence for the SRU Tartan until last year, this is now with Kinloch Anderson).

The leather patch / logo on the back of the kilt isn't something I have seen on Slanj products - so I'd agree it isn't one of theirs.

[OC Richard]

The kilts4less/tartan4less/exhirekilts/Clan Alba/West Highland Kilts/Thistle Kilts/Alba Highland Dress kilts look like that, the distinctive things are the stamped pattern on the straps, the wide leather patch, and the fabric.

The fabric of these kilts has an odd flimsy feel to it and I'm quite certain is woven in India or Pakistan. Quite often the warp and weft are markedly different, I've noticed it with their Isle Of Skye fabric.



If you want to see a really strange kilts4less/tartan4less/exhirekilts tartan, look closely at these waistcoats they were selling on Ebay

[Blaidd]

The kilts4less/tartan4less/exhirekilts/Clan Alba/West Highland Kilts/Thistle Kilts/Alba Highland Dress kilts look like that, the distinctive things are the stamped pattern on the straps, the wide leather patch, and the fabric.

OCR is correct, this is from the K4L etc stable. I can say categorically that it is NOT from the Welsh Tartan Centre. I don't know how to quote a second member in the same post, but Figheadair, the WTC are not in the business of 'knocking anything off'. I am not going to enter into the inevitable debate over the ''legitimacy'' of Welsh Tartan, but I know the team well and have more than several items from them, all of which are perfect and of extremely high quality (exactly the same in fact, as my 'recognised/approved' Scottish variants - being a Welsh Scot, I am privileged to wear both). I certainly do not advocate individuals being ripped off by unscrupulous sellers (and there are indeed many) and I would certainly assist/advise individuals accordingly where I can, but when the quality is high, and the c/kilt wearing ethos is being properly promoted, I believe such a throw away comment could do considerable damage. My opinion and twopence worth only, clearly. Cilt on.

[figheadair]

but Figheadair, the WTC are not in the business of 'knocking anything off'. I believe such a throw away comment could do considerable damage. My opinion and twopence worth only, clearly. Cilt on.

Point taken. I have amended my comment.

[Blaidd]

Point taken. I have amended my comment.

My thanks, very much appreciated. Keep safe.

[thecompaqguy]

The kilts4less/tartan4less/exhirekilts/Clan Alba/West Highland Kilts/Thistle Kilts/Alba Highland Dress kilts look like that, the distinctive things are the stamped pattern on the straps, the wide leather patch, and the fabric.

The fabric of these kilts has an odd flimsy feel to it and I'm quite certain is woven in India or Pakistan. Quite often the warp and weft are markedly different, I've noticed it with their Isle Of Skye fabric.



If you want to see a really strange kilts4less/tartan4less/exhirekilts tartan, look closely at these waistcoats they were selling on Ebay

Kilts4Less are a mixed bag, but I bought one of these Isle of Skye kilts, had the same "un-ironed", crumpled finish, stiff straps embossed with a "Celtic" pattern, and that wide belt with a lion in the middle at the rear of the kilt. I think it might be Clan Alba who make these, they've upped their prices on eBay to £249, making people think they are "genuine" kilts, but it is more tat, just slightly better made.

I bought a Henderson Weathered before they got really popular for £150, that same kilt is £349 but not made as well. Only Pakistani kilt would have to convince the buyer it's a "Genuine Scottish Kilt"

[Steve Ashton]

The sellers listed above are re-sellers or factory outlets for Glenisla makers.

Many of their offerings are made in Scotland from UK woven fabric. But I suspect some of the fabric, due to the low prices, may come from lesser known mills.