Buying a kilt

[stewmini]

Thank you everyone so much for the advice. I have been looking at USAKilts as an option. So next question. Measuring length is top of belly button down to the middle of knee. So if the ordering option lengths are 21.5 or 22 but I measured 21.75 do I go up to 22 or down to 21.5?

[KennethSime]

Thank you everyone so much for the advice. I have been looking at USAKilts as an option. So next question. Measuring length is top of belly button down to the middle of knee. So if the ordering option lengths are 21.5 or 22 but I measured 21.75 do I go up to 22 or down to 21.5?

Best to call USA Kilts in the morning and ask their advice - if memory serves, they recommend you measure belly button to mid-knee, then add an inch. As it is a custom-made garment, I'm sure they could split the difference for you and add the extra 1/4".

[Jock Scot]

Best to call USA Kilts in the morning and ask their advice - if memory serves, they recommend you measure belly button to mid-knee, then add an inch. As it is a custom-made garment, I'm sure they could split the difference for you and add the extra 1/4".

A thought occurs when reading the above and I think Steve mentioned it too and this is "measure to the mid knee". Now I dont want to get into too much theory here , but all the bespoke kilts that I have had made (perhaps 7or 8) over a pretty long lifetime have been measured to the top of the knee. Yes, I know! We are heading towards the interminable discussion into the where the bottom of the kilt is worn, but that is not actually what I am asking , or wanting discuss.

As a kilt maker Steve/Rocky/other kilt makers when YOU measure to the centre of the knee is that the place that you actually expect the kilt to be worn? I assume so, or is there a tailoring "trick" involved? Is this then, why kilts outwith the UK seem to be worn too low for traditional thinkers? I notice that Kilt Hire kilts seem to be worn too low as well and I have always assumed that the wearers do not know about the traditional height that kilts are worn, or that they are afraid that they are showing too much leg? And yes, I do accept that the chap who is wearing the kilt is exercising personal choice in how he wears the kilt.

[Steve Ashton]

Thank you everyone so much for the advice. I have been looking at USAKilts as an option. So next question. Measuring length is top of belly button down to the middle of knee. So if the ordering option lengths are 21.5 or 22 but I measured 21.75 do I go up to 22 or down to 21.5?

OK, a comment here. This is what the USA Kilts site says about measuring for a 5 yard Semi-Trad.

"Waist

A Traditional kilt is worn higher than your pants, just above the belly button (for larger customers, just above the WIDEST part of your belly). This is where the top of the kilt will sit.

DO NOT HOLD YOUR STOMACH IN. You’ll only going to get a kilt that's too small. Just relax and stand "at ease".

Make sure to use a good sewing tape measure. If you don't have a sewing tape measure, you can use a leather belt to measure. Wrap it around you, mark it and then lay it flat on a metal tape measure to get the measurement.

The tape measure should be snug – as snug as you will be wearing the kilt.

*Note: It will probably be 2 to 4 inches more than your pants size. This is common.

*TIP: BIG guys with large bellies may want to wear the kilt around the naval, as it gives a more flattering appearance."



Notice that is does not say at the top of the belly button, it says just above the belly button.

I personally dislike the idea of using the belly button as a reference for measuring. It is in soft tissue and moves. A larger guy will have a belly button lower than a thinner guy.
So I prefer to use the bones which cannot move.

A kilt worn in the "Traditional" style will have the top strap cinched into the anatomical waist. This is just below the ribs.
To find your anatomical waist put your finger just under the ribs at the side. Then bend in, towards your finger. You will feel your finger go into a hole. This is where the bones of your spine bend and is the anatomical waist.
In the front the top of a "Traditional" kilt will be about 3 or 4 finger widths below the bottom of the breast bone.

But not all guys want to wear their kilts at the anatomical waist. And that is OK. Perhaps this photo can help



Both the The Black Watch military kilt and the Gray Granite kilt are worn with the top strap cinched into the anatomical waist. The military kilt has 3 inches of kilt above the top strap while the gray granite kilt has 2 inches above the top strap. But both are designed to be worn at the anatomical waist.

The Hudson's Bay Tartan kilt is worn lower at mid waist height. The top strap sits just on top of the illiac crest of the hip bones. My belly button happens to be right at the top of the belt buckle. But notice that the bottom of all three are at the same place down at the knee. Due to the camera angle it looks like the kilts are longer than they are but take my word for it, all three hit right at the top of my patella. So the length of the pleats from the hip line down to the knee are all the same.
Only the height above the hip line is different. But what a difference.

So my advice is to call and talk to the folks at USA kilts. They are the people who will be making the kilt. They are the best source of good, solid information, on how to measure for one of their kilts.

Don't go by any other makers measuring system. Don't just assume that everything will be fine. This is not like going into wallmart and buying a pair of jeans.

We are so use to buying off the rack or from a website, sight unseen, that we forget that when buying a kilt, communication with the maker is the best way to get a kilt that fits well, and that you will be happy with.

[KennethSime]

Fantastic advice as always, Steve.

[Balaamsass51]

While the original post was displeased with their purchase of a Pakistani kilt, not all Pakistani kilts are inferior. Stillwater Kilts only carry the higher quality Pakistani kilts. I would prefer not to paint any source with too broad a brush. I purchased a kilt from Stillwater over 10 years ago and am quite happy with it. I alternatively wear it to Highland games alternating with my Matthew Newsome kilt.

[stewmini]

Let me clarify my wording. What I mean by over the top of the belly button is actually above it. Please, please forgive my terminology , though I will be getting a hold of USA Kilts. I did follow their instructions and measured about 10 times(with a tailor tape). My results were the same measurements after several times.

Once I have established my measurement: I do have my tartan picked but, noticed that there are several different options. Such as 13 oz or 16 oz . I think I understand it as lighter vs heavier? Then there is what looks like where the fabric is from? I live in Eugene, Oregon and don't usually have extreme heat or extreme cold and I am leaning towards 13oz. I think, if I am correct in my assumption as it's lighter? I think that would be also personal preference? So if I am correct in my thinking, back to where the fabric mill is from what seems to be the choice or are all good? Men I do appreciate your time and advice with this newbie!

[Father Bill]

Let me clarify my wording. What I mean by over the top of the belly button is actually above it. Please, please forgive my terminology , though I will be getting a hold of USA Kilts. I did follow their instructions and measured about 10 times(with a tailor tape). My results were the same measurements after several times.

Once I have established my measurement: I do have my tartan picked but, noticed that there are several different options. Such as 13 oz or 16 oz . I think I understand it as lighter vs heavier? Then there is what looks like where the fabric is from? I live in Eugene, Oregon and don't usually have extreme heat or extreme cold and I am leaning toward a 13oz. I think, if I am correct in my assumption as it's lighter? I think that would be also personal preference? So if I am correct in my thinking, back to where the fabric mill is from what seems to be the choice or are all good? Men I do appreciate your time and advice with this newbie!

My guess is that you would notice the relative coolness of the cloth less than you would notice the lesser 'swish' when walking. The difference between 13 & 16 is not huge, but it is enough to be noticed.

I have only 16 oz, and while it does get cold here, it also gets hotter than the hinges of hades from time to time, and if you walk or just sway a little, you get quite a breeze. The only spot that gets warm in my experience, is the belly.

[DCampbell16B]

Not to get off topic but that was a nice round post # 9000 for Father Bill!

[stewmini]

Where does one get a decent pair of Ghillie Brogues?