Ghillie brogues - why the dislike and resentment..?

[Wandering Spark]

That's really cool. Generally things in museums have little or no provenance (Dr Hugh Cheape formerly with National Museums Scotland drives this point home) so having such a clear provenance is super. Comparing these shoes with the Aran pamputai would give an impression as to earlier pan-Gaelic footwear dovetailing nicely with John Elder's 1542 description.

But for sure when we look the Ghillies in The Highlanders Of Scotland all but one pair are tan roughout leather, which suggests that at that time they were regarded as a rustic shoe.

Some Scottish cuarans or rivlins (the Scots name)
sealskin rivlins comp.jpg
Top to bottom: sealskin rivlins at the Scalloway Museum, Shetland made in 1880.
Rivlin from Shetland at the NMS, made in the 1870s.
Rivlins from North Ronaldsay, date unknown.

I'm not convinced that Victorian era Scots regarded the ghillie brogue as a rustic shoe. I've looked at a bunch of photos and paintings from the mid-19th c. of Scots hunting and fishing. They are nearly always wearing either boots or basic brogues.

William Duff w grandson c1880.jpg
c.1880 William Duff fishing with his grandson. This the same William Duff who's wearing basic brogues and holding a fishing pole in The Highlanders Of Scotland.


William Duff again, in an 1844 painting by Charles Landseer

photo of Peel Ross Fishing c.1856 in double toe-cap brogues

photo of Peel Ross with Horse after a Hunt c.1856 in basic brogues

1850 painting of a Highlander hunting in toecap brogues by Edwin Landseer

1861 painting by Rosa Bonheur of a ghillie in shawl-tongue brogues leading two reluctant Shetland ponies

The only exception I have seen to this is this 1854 painting of ghillie John Macdonald salmon leistering with Princes Edward and Alfred. I suspect that if your work day required chaperoning the Prince of Wales, you might choose to dress a bit more formally than you ordinarily did.

Also, I've never worn ghillie brogues, but they don't seem like they would be very practical for running around the Highlands. Wouldn't you constantly be getting bits of heather caught in them?

[Jock Scot]

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Also, I've never worn ghillie brogues, but they don't seem like they would be very practical for running around the Highlands. Wouldn't you constantly be getting bits of heather caught in them?

I couldn't agree more and I am speaking with more than a few decades of deer stalking experience in the Highlands. No one with any experience of deer stalking in the Highlands would even consider wearing ghillie brogues or, for that matter, the kilt, out on the hill. There are far, far better attire choices these days. Heather stalks, bits of grit, sharp edged rocks, ticks, cleggs(horse flies), the wee midge and its assorted blood sucking friends would have a field day!

Although, I have known two hardy deer stalkers, from different Estates who do(did is more accurate as they have passed away!) wear the kilt out on the hill in all weathers, but........they wore sturdy boots and their kilts were distinctly battered and threadbare.

[TheVintageLibertine]

Reading through this thread, it seems like a lot of complaints regarding ghillie brogues relate to the quality and comfort of what is available today.

My career requires a suit and tie everyday and I am often on my feet for four hours straight. Accordingly, I have become well acquainted with the qualities that make a comfortable and durable dress shoes over the years. My go to brand for daily wear is Alden, because they work for me and I am willing to pay a (very high) premium for shoes that look good, last a long time, and don’t hurt my feet. The philosophy behind this (or self-justification of the expense, if you prefer) is that the most expensive shoes you will ever buy is the pair you only wear once because they are uncomfortable.

Last time I was shopping for ghillie brogues, I really couldn’t find anything at a comparable price/quality to what I wear daily. IIRC, Loake and/or Cheany may’ve made them some at one point, but they didn’t have them in my size. I ended up getting some by “Thistle Shoes” which I find serviceable, but usually default to an old pair of buckle brogues for formal wear, normal full brogues, or walking boots, depending on the occasion.

[Jock Scot]

This is a perennial discussion about ghillie brogues that goes around this website from time to time and appears to go round and round without any sensible conclusion. Frankly, it gets rather tiresome. To my mind one either likes them or one doesn't, its that simple.

If you like them, then wear them. If you don't then, well, don't!

[Ivor]

There seems to be two subjects that provoke endless controversy, one of which is white socks and the other styles of footwear. Discussion of these can become quite heated and, like this thread, continue ad infinitum. And then someone comes along who, like Jock, sums it up perfectly as you either like it or you don’t, so live with it.

[OC Richard]

There seems to be two subjects that provoke endless controversy, one of which is white socks...

That's just the comings and goings of fashion.

I well remember when the gleaming pure white hose first appeared on the feet of some of the world's top Pipe Bands and they were suddenly the height of fashion, with all the bands scrambling to get them.

Then inevitably the wheel of fashion turned and the world's top Pipe Band suddenly switched to black hose, and if your band was wearing white you were announcing to everyone that you were living under a rock.

Be around long enough and you see these repeated 20-year cycles, just as you do in the world of non-Highland fashion.

[Jock Scot]

That's just the comings and goings of fashion.

I well remember when the gleaming pure white hose first appeared on the feet of some of the world's top Pipe Bands and they were suddenly the height of fashion, with all the bands scrambling to get them.

Then inevitably the wheel of fashion turned and the world's top Pipe Band suddenly switched to black hose, and if your band was wearing white you were announcing to everyone that you were living under a rock.

Be around long enough and you see these repeated 20-year cycles, just as you do in the world of non-Highland fashion.

I have never been convinced that traditional highland attire, in Scotland, has ever seriously followed pipe band fashions. For sure some might ,but certainly in the Highlands here in Scotland I do not see THCD being guided by what pipe bands are wearing and never have. Perhaps the kilt hire industry might be? I really don't know.

[Jock Scot]

This is a perennial discussion about ghillie brogues that goes around this website from time to time and appears to go round and round without any sensible conclusion. Frankly, it gets rather tiresome. To my mind one either likes them or one doesn't, its that simple.

If you like them, then wear them. If you don't then, well, don't!

I am sorry to repeat a post and the discussion has moved on a tad, but perhaps its still appropriate?

[OC Richard]

Reading through this thread, it seems like a lot of complaints regarding ghillie brogues relate to the quality and comfort of what is available today.

Last time I was shopping for ghillie brogues, I really couldn’t find anything at a comparable price/quality to what I wear daily. IIRC, Loake and/or Cheany may’ve made them some at one point, but they didn’t have them in my size. I ended up getting some by “Thistle Shoes” which I find serviceable...

My whole life I've always been "an easy fit" for shoes- my feet happen to be close to the norm or default of most makers.

When I was required to buy my first pair of Ghillies in the 1970s (having joined my first Pipe Band) I found the same was true- I bought a pair of Keltic brand Ghillies which were extremely comfortable.

But now Keltic are gone and none of the very few choices (Thistle, Gaelic Themes, Avriel) fit my previously-normal feet.