Is my kilt "off"?

[Kouzfot]

Hello, and thank you for letting me in!

I’ve just had a kilt made to measure for my wedding. I was blown away by all the choices one can make—it was quite the experience!
It turned out pretty well, and I’m happy with the result overall.

I’m still new to all of this, so I thought I’d reach out to you knowledgeable folks for some advice.

First off, I’m very happy with my kiltmaker. Their service has been excellent from the very first contact and continues to be.

That said, there’s one thing I feel might be off with my kilt. I’ve emailed them about it (the kiltmaker is in Edinburgh, and I live in Norway), and they say it’s normal and can be pressed out. I’d just like a second opinion.

I’ve attached some photos to illustrate. Along the seam—what I believe might be called the fell line?—where the “loose” part of the pleat is sewn in, the fabric appears to pull slightly to one side and then back. It’s as if the pleat hits a slight “bump” instead of falling in a straight line. If I gently pull on the seam, it straightens out, but it springs back as soon as I let go.
It's seen best when I wear the kilt, ref attached photos.

Anyone seen anything like this before?
Is this a sign of an issue in the making, or is it indeed something that can be corrected with pressing, as they suggest?
I haven't tried pressing yet, as no one around here has experience in pressing kilt, and i'm a little hesitant to do it myself.

Thank you very much!

K

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[CBH]

Kinda hard to tell.

Can you add a picture zoomed out a little more ?

But you are right about the huge number of choices and subtleties in different kilts.

[Jock Scot]

I have been wearing the kilt from time to time for some 70 plus years and whilst I have no real interest on how the kilt is constructed, I think fit is all important. Although as one ages, minor adjustments might be necessary, although that should not be a problem for you at present! Assuming the your new kilt fits well, I would suggest quite a few days of careful wearing may solve the minor blemishes that have caught your eye. In short, don’t fuss about it. Good luck!

[Pleater]

As a total perfectionist when it comes to what I make, I have to say I would not expect anything that I produced to require pressing to make it look correctly made.

It looks as though the pleats are not joined to the inner structure of thee kilt correctly - perhaps it was placed on a support slightly off true before sewing together and now the inner part of the pleats are being drawn to the left - and is the distance to the left of the centre line narrower than that to the right? It might just be the camera angle but I'd be reaching for my micrometre.

I'd advise approaching the supplier again and putting the point to them that you do not have the skills to correct whatever error has occurred and it seems a little strange that it should be down to you to make it right.

Anne the Pleater

[Jock Scot]

I yield to Pleater’s superior technical knowledge and general know how, on this matter.

[Kouzfot]

As a total perfectionist when it comes to what I make, I have to say I would not expect anything that I produced to require pressing to make it look correctly made.

It looks as though the pleats are not joined to the inner structure of thee kilt correctly - perhaps it was placed on a support slightly off true before sewing together and now the inner part of the pleats are being drawn to the left - and is the distance to the left of the centre line narrower than that to the right? It might just be the camera angle but I'd be reaching for my micrometre.

I'd advise approaching the supplier again and putting the point to them that you do not have the skills to correct whatever error has occurred and it seems a little strange that it should be down to you to make it right.

Anne the Pleater

Hello Anne, and thank you for you reply.
This might be a stupid question, but as this is my first kilt, and I have no one around me to ask.
Distance to the left of the centre line narrower than to the right; to you mean measured from the left side of the pleat to the centre of the ruby red stripe and same from the right. Do you mean at the top of by the waist, where the pleats come loose or at the bottom?

I've measured the centre pleat. From the side to the ruby red stripe

Picture 1, waist:
6mm on both sides.
topleft-min.jpgtopright-min.jpg
picture 2, fell line (is that whats it's called? where the pleat come loose):
left: 8mm as it is, (10mm if i pull the pleat to the left towards the left). right: 10,5mm
middleleft-min.jpgmiddleright-min.jpg
picture 3, 11cm up from the bottom:
left: 14,2mm. Right: 10,1mm.
bottomleft-min.jpgbottomright-min.jpg


perhaps it was placed on a support slightly off true before sewing together and now the inner part of the pleats are being drawn to the left
Not sure i understand what you mean. When you say the inner part. Are you referring to the back side of the pleat?


If there are any other pictures from other angles, just ask and I shall provide

Thanks again!
K

[Pleater]

I meant the area of the distortion, the centre line looks to be off centre, over to the left, as though the back of the pleat was sewn to the interfacing out of alignment.
That could happen if the kilt and linings were not lying true during the sewing together.

It is not a huge and glaring error, but I am surprised that it was considered adequate.

I am an utter perfectionist - I once took apart an entire garment for three misplaced stitches, but I would go back to the maker and see if there is someone more senior than the person suggesting that you try to press out the problem, or get more informed advice on just what and how you have got pleats on the skew.

Anne the Pleater.

[Pleater]

I yield to Pleater’s superior technical knowledge and general know how, on this matter.

I don't have a middle name, but if I did it would be Pernickety.

Anne the Pleater

[Kouzfot]

I meant the area of the distortion, the centre line looks to be off centre, over to the left, as though the back of the pleat was sewn to the interfacing out of alignment.
That could happen if the kilt and linings were not lying true during the sewing together.

It is not a huge and glaring error, but I am surprised that it was considered adequate.

I am an utter perfectionist - I once took apart an entire garment for three misplaced stitches, but I would go back to the maker and see if there is someone more senior than the person suggesting that you try to press out the problem, or get more informed advice on just what and how you have got pleats on the skew.

Anne the Pleater.

Ah, I think I see what you mean now.
The center line — the central pleat — appears to be skewing to the left.

I’ve taken another photo with a folding ruler for reference. I assume you're referring to how the vertical stripes are drifting left?
It looks like the center pleat is already leaning before it even reaches the fell line.

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If that’s the case — would fixing it require taking the entire kilt apart?

Taking it back is not just heading down the street, it's a 2 hour flight

The person I've been emailing with is the manager of that branch.. As far as I understand it, they don't make the kilts on-site. But I would assume he knows what he is talking about.

Thank you again for your feedback!

K

Edit: forgot picture

[Steve Ashton]

It is very possible that what has happened here is the Steeking line may have been sewn just a tad too tight.

To understand what I am referring to, you have to understand how a kilt made in the Traditional manner is constructed.

After the Fell Area (the area where the pleats are tapered and sewn down) is sewn, the excess material inside the kilt, that would be bulky due to the taper, is cut-away.



In effect, this weakens the garment, and the only thing holding the whole thing together, are the relatively weak hand stitches in the Fell Area.
And because some of the fabric is cut away the pleats will have a tendency to sag due to their own weight which is no longer supported.

So, a line of stitching is added. This is called "The Steeking Line". It is a line of stitching that hold and anchor each pleat - to the pleats under it, but to not go all the way through to the outside of the kilt.

If the stitches of the Steeking line are pulled too tight as they are sewn they can "Telegraph" to the outside and will appear just as what is seen in your kilt.



The problem for you is that the Steeking Line cannot be seen from the outside and is covered by the interfacing and liner on the inside.

The liner of a kilt made in the Traditional manner is not a structural component. It's only purpose is to cover up what is underneath.

Because the excess fabric is cut-away in the Fell Area you must add a structural element called the "Stabilizer". This is a piece of fabric that is very strong and will resist stretching in the lengthwise direction. It is added inside and goes from one buckle, across the back, to the other buckle.

You can think of the Stabilizer as an internal belt. It is the primary horizontal strengthening element of the Garment.



(On this kilt the 'flame' patterned fabric is just for fun. No one will ever see it after the kilt is finished.)

After the Steeking and the Stabilizer are in, the Horizontal Stiffening Element is added. This is called "The Interfacing". It is usually made from a fabric called "Hair Canvas" or "Suit Coat Chest Canvas". It is stiffer in the vertical direction than in the horizontal direction.



Now a light Liner is sewn in to cover and hide all this internal construction and its elements.




After all of this hidden work, the Fell Area of a Traditionally made kilt, can stand up all on its own.





Now - on your kilt, if the Fell Area cannot stand up on its own - or if you can lift the liner and there is little to nothing under it - Then your kilt is not made in the Traditional manner and everything I have just posted is for naught.



If you can pull on the buckles and you see the pleats in the Fell Area stretch, then your kilt is not made in the Traditional manner -



and everything I have just posted is for naught.

But it is possible that what you are seeing in your kilt is due to tight Steeking Stitches and that will not be fixed by steaming. More than likely the kilt will need to be partial de-constructed to gain access to the Steeking line.