Deciding how to pleat a kilt

[ShaunMaxwell]

About 15 years ago when I first started building my highland dress wardrobe (which admittedly is still somewhat meager after all these years) I remember reading (probably here) that MM treated their wool fabric with some kind of teflon coating to protect it. Many people said the fabric didn't look or feel right, being somewhat shiny in appearance and stiff in structure. The complaint was that this affected the hand of the fabric and it was harder to pleat and the pleats didn't drape properly and therefore didn't "swish" like fabric from other mills. This was the reason that MM was often at the bottom of many people's lists of preferred tartan mills. I know I certainly avoided it when I was kilt shopping. Three kilts and none are MM.

I have seven kilts: three are Marton Mills, two Locharron, one DC Dalgliesh and one House of Edgar. I have not noticed any of the complaints you've mentioned. I'ts not shiny, or stiff. In fact, of my kilts, I'd say that the one with the best "swish" is Marton Mills tartan, with second place going to the House of Edgar. That said, I reckon the swing has more to do with the construction than the fabric.

I'll leave it to the kiltmakers to comment on the workability of the tartan, but — having had experience with various kilts made from fabric from various mills — I certainly wouldn't say that Marton Mills tartan is something to be avoided.

Cheers,

SM

P.S. Interesting video that discusses the various mills: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKWv6e9Qk6s