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19th February 07, 08:06 PM
#1
I ordered 7 meters, going to sit on most it for just a little while though. I have "irons in the fire" so to speak. I am in line for one of Barbs pieces of art in Ancient Grant and I am just about to pull the trigger on a Matt Newsome box pleat in the 13 oz Grant tartan from Strathmore in reproduction of late 18th century coloration. Kind of a period kilt, colors to match the era of the box pleat. Definately a unique twist that Matt suggested.
Any way, Plans are for 2.5 yards of the XMarks clan tartan will go to Matt for a box pleat and the rest will eventually go towards possibly a knife pleat trad. or a military box pleated ( does the mil box pleat require more yardage?) at a later date. No rush on that though. Will have enough Jonesing to keep me on pins and needles for a few months while these first three get done.
Like Panache said, "I am Jonesing but I am happy!!!"
:mrgreen:
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20th February 07, 10:46 AM
#2
 Originally Posted by Warhoover
... possibly a knife pleat trad. or a military box pleated ( does the mil box pleat require more yardage?)...
Short answer: No, the yardage requirement is the same as any other pleat-to-stripe.
Longer answer: Military box pleats are generally constructed at one per sett. The tartans usually used by the military are 18 to 22 oz and have fairly large setts, so the pleat depth is good. Smaller setts on lighter fabric would produce shallower depths.
The sett of the XMarks tartan (14 oz, run #2) was about 6 7/8 inches, and Steve Ashton is "guessing" this sett (16 oz, run #3) at 7 1/8 inches. This is smaller than the 8-9-10-inch setts of the tartans usually pleated in mil-box.
With knife pleats and 1-inch reveals, pleat depth would be approx. 3 inches. Turn back the knife edge into 1-inch mil-boxes, and the measured pleat depth drops to 2 inches - sort of. But the expansion of the pleats during movement, and the manner in which they move, is very different than a knife pleat with a 2-inch depth.
I need to do a little more investigation (read: test pleating) to see if a 7-inch sett in 16 oz tartan will be satisfactory.
"Listen Men.... You are no longer bound down to the unmanly dress of the Lowlander." 1782 Repeal.
* * * * *
Lady From Hell vs Neighbor From Hell @ [url]http://way2noisy.blogspot.com[/url]
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20th February 07, 12:00 PM
#3
I got off the phone with Gordon Kirkbright just now and thought I would everyone know that the fabric is on the loom.
Gordon commented that to move the white line off the selvdge edge he had to adjust the thread count slightly and this resulted in the gray line being more defined. He says that in his opinion this is the best looking run of the X Marks Tartan.
Now even I am jonesing.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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20th February 07, 01:11 PM
#4
Like Panache & Warhoover said, "I am Jonesing but I am happy!!!"
I was able to order from the 2nd run part II.
Last month I sent my tartan to Barb T to be made into a work of art
But, I have to wait until the end of June
Good things come to those who wait
Steve,
Any unspoken tartan left from the 3rd run? I would like to have a tartan vest made.
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20th February 07, 03:51 PM
#5
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22nd February 07, 10:20 AM
#6
 Originally Posted by way2fractious
I need to do a little more investigation (read: test pleating) to see if a 7-inch sett in 16 oz tartan will be satisfactory.
Either I'm getting old, or losing parts of my mind, or both! It finally occurred to me to measure the sett size and pleat depths on the military box pleated 16 oz MacLaren Weathered kilt I just finished. The sett is 6 7/8 inches; the measured pleat depth is two inches. The "swish" factor, as noted on its last outing, is perfectly fine.
Below is a clickable thumbnail.

My conclusion is that the XMarks tartan from this weaving run will make up beautifully into a military box pleated kilt.
w2f
"Listen Men.... You are no longer bound down to the unmanly dress of the Lowlander." 1782 Repeal.
* * * * *
Lady From Hell vs Neighbor From Hell @ [url]http://way2noisy.blogspot.com[/url]
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