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Steve's instructions are specifically for a Freedom Kilt. The instructions aren't, in fact, what a traditional kiltmaker would use. We don't measure slope - instead, we just use one waist measurement, one hip measurement, and a length measurement. No criticism intended!! It's just that Steve's kilts are shaped a bit differently from the traditional wool kilt.
Anyone making a trad kilt will assume that you will wear your kilt at your true waist, where a trad kilt is supposed to be worn, not under a belly. The kiltmaker will then add a 2" rise so that the top of the kilt is actually 2" above the true waist.
If you were to measure under the belly, the kilt would be too small. And, if you measure the length properly and then _wear_ the kilt under the belly, it will be too long.
Most men with a bit of a corporation wear their pants under their bellies, and the waist size is not an accurate reflection of what circumference they need for kilts.
Cheers,
B
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