Freedom Kilts reviews a Stillwater

[turpin]

This is the first review of a Stillwater that I can remember by a professional kiltmaker. Based on my one SWK Standard and two SWK heavies, it is a very FOX TV review (i.e., fair and balanced). Perhaps even foxier than FOX. If I had two things to change number one would be to cut out the pleats, and number two would address the bunching of the waistband lining. (3 would be better apron shaping).

I seem to recall Jerry saying that a steeking line isn't needed if the pleats aren't cut out because the full pleat width is sewn into the waistband, whereas with the pleats cut out the inside edge of the pleat is not supported, andsteeking is needed, as well as a stabilizing cloth sewn to the cut out part.

It's all about how much labor is needed to make a decent product and still hit a profitable price point. I think that comes across in Steve's review. Kiltos to ya.

[RockyR]

Good review Steve... sounded fair and balanced to me as well. I'd also applaud you for (what seems to me) to be an accurate and fair review of another kilt company's product without trying to sound like you're putting them down or trying to "upsell" your product. Kudos.

The only thing I'd disagree with is what turpin pointed out...

I seem to recall Jerry saying that a steeking line isn't needed if the pleats aren't cut out because the full pleat width is sewn into the waistband, whereas with the pleats cut out the inside edge of the pleat is not supported, andsteeking is needed, as well as a stabilizing cloth sewn to the cut out part.

I don't steek our Semi Trads, Casuals or 5 yarders b/c we don't cut out the "pleat innards" either. The main reason you WOULD cut out the innards is to reduce bulk in the waistband. Since some fabrics are thinner than others or you use less material, a thick waistband is not always a problem. Women's kilted Skirts don't have their "innards cut out" either and aren't steeked and they don't droop.

I agree with Jerry (who Turpin quoted) on that point that steeking is done to re-inforce the pleats when they're cut out. If you DON'T cut them out, the whole depth of the pleat is supported by it being sewn into the waistband, therefore your pleats won't "droop" over time.

I'd be curious... Do Barb or Matt have a take on this? I'm looking at it from an construction / engineering standpoint, which I'm sure you can appreciate, Steve (for those of you who don't know, Steve knows "a little bit" about engineering). Keep in mind... these aren't "traditional handsewns".

[M. A. C. Newsome]

When I make a 4-yard box pleated kilt, I don't cut out in the inside of the pleats, because there is no need to. My point of reference for these kilts is always the historic kilts that I've had the benefit of examining first hand. None of these had the pleats cut out. Again, there is no need to.

On a 4 yard kilt, the pleats are not deep enough to overlap one another much, so usually you only have about 3 layers of thickness of the cloth. It's enought to provide some body without being bulky. For the same reason I also don't put in a full canvas lining in the back. I don't need it. Because I didn't cut out all the pleats, the heavy weight wool that I usually use (even the medium weight) has enough thickness to maintain the shape of the kilt. (I do put in a 2" wide strip of canvas at the waist line to add support where there will be stress from the straps and buckles pulling).

When I make a 5 yard knife pleated kilt, it's a judgement call. Usually I leave the pleats whole and intact. However, on some men, with some tartans, the pleats end up being deep enough that there is considerable overlap at the waist, and if I feel the bulk is too great, I'll cut away the pleats.

I would never do any kilt with more yardage than this without cutting away the pleats, as it creates far too much bulk in the back. I noticed the same thing about the Stillwater kilts I've been able to examine in person. The back is almost cushion-like. I've also seen some amateur made kilts with this same problem.

~M

[RockyR]

but do you steek the 4 yarders and 5 yarders?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

To answer Rocky's question, yes I steek them, but no it's probably not absolutely neccesary since I have not cut the inside of the pleats out.