Ok, so I've had a few problems. I've cut myself and stabbed myself multiple times for the first time on this project and I did the check after the pleats were sewn in. Nice little cut from the knife I'm using as a seam ripper and three inches too large...

I couldn't figure out why. The A shaping added an inch to the rump. and apparently the fabric and my almost complete lack of sewing skills added another 2.5. That was odd. The measurement also seemed to change each time I measured. My solution: Re-hem the over-apron. It's back to 40" now.

My next problem/question as I settle down for the night/ 3:30 in the morning:

Do I bar tack the over-apron to the pleat next to it, or leave it to flap, and let the waist hold it together?