Ah - the 'can't walk past fabric without planning kilts' syndrome - oh I know it well - last week I was on holiday, but managed to aquire two lengths of DPM in different colour ways, and maybe enough black wool for an almost 7 yard kilt. With things being measured out in metric it can be difficult to be exact.

I do have some square patterned material - non standard tartans - which so far have been used for pleating to the stripe - but I will - eventually - have to make a kilt to the sett - and it might have to be a military box pleat. I might make it smaller than my present waist size, so that I can wear it either this winter or next - I wouldn't want to finish it only to find it too large.

Any pics of the work in progress?

If you are putting 1.5 sets into each pleat, that will mean that there are 5 layers where the pleats overlap. Will you be cutting away the pleats under the fell or leaving it whole?