XKILT Question - Determining Under Apron/Pleat Width?

[panhandlephillips]

In the text there are the numbers of pleats and widths of aprons for various different sizes, and the 3 inch panels are simply a convenient size, which can be altered if necessary.

Th way I read this part is that this is the overapron width + #pleats(pleat width). Which makes sense.

What I am having trouble with is the underapron and underapron pleat dimensions. The numbers in the instructions seem to have been picked out of the blue.

[ccga3359]

Alan H on this forum designed the X-kilt. You could pm him directly with any questions. He's in California but does check in most nights. He also might be able to direct you to some of the more relevant threads as there have been many in regards to the X-Kilt one could accidentally skip over a good one.

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

Th way I read this part is that this is the overapron width + #pleats(pleat width). Which makes sense.

What I am having trouble with is the underapron and underapron pleat dimensions. The numbers in the instructions seem to have been picked out of the blue.

They are basically picked out of the blue. The appendix with the sample layout is from one of the first X-Kilts made. I would recommend at leat 4-6 inches more for the under apron than what you choose for an over apron width. This provides for decent modesty.

Be well,

[Pleater]

When I am making my kilts - which are, admittedly to a different style but the front is going to be the same - ish on all kilts, I make the aprons so they fall vertically when I sit down.

This is a combination of large under apron pleats and placing the edges of the apron in the centre of the thigh, so they slide down the inner curve rather than lie over the top.

This means that the area of pleats actually wraps around the hips - if you aproximate the shape to a box you have visible pleats right around three sides and over the edges of the fourth.

I always shape the left edge of the apron and the right edge of the inner apron by two inches - those are the edges within the kilt, but leave the ends straight. I make a two inch fold at the edge of the apron and press it so it tapers to nothing at the lower edge, because otherwise it looks as though the apron narrows.

Behind the shaping fold is the under apron pleat - usually I put all the leftover material into it, but it is nominally half the apron width, so there are six layers of fabric in the front of the kilt. That will allow you to move, even kick up your heels without too much danger of a can-can reveal.

(The early exponents of the can-can used to dance on tables with no drawers)