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20th December 07, 10:25 AM
#18
Gentlemen, a pet peeve. Standing collars vs. folded collars:
To begin with, any suggestion that "wings" are "only" to be worn with white tie is utter pig-poo! Wings are properly worn with black tie if one is dining out. The folded collar is worn with black tie when one is dining in. So much for what is absolutely "proper".
Since folded collars are much more convenient and generally more comfortable so have they become the standard of a gentleman's black tie evening attire. Generally speaking a folded collar shirt is to be preferred as the collar will fit properly, something that can not be said for the majority of shirts with "wing" collars that are attached to the shirt itself. (A proper evening shirt has a detachable collar.) These attached wing collars tend to be too short and allow the tie to ride up onto the back of the neck. They also "wilt" because they are not stiff enough to withstand the heat and light persperation of being worn next to the skin. Fold over collars also wilt, but it is not as noticable due to their shape.
With white tie only a wing collar is worn (as is a white waistcoat-- black is only worn by butlers and footmen). Never wear a fold over collar with white tie. Ever.
As for pre-tied ties? I regard them as something of a social fraud. A gentleman ties his tie.
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