box pleat call for help

[MacWage]

Measure your Sett size and divide by 3. This will give you the Pleat width if pleating to the Stripe. To pleat to the Sett you will have to decide if you want your In Pleats to overlap or not touch at all.
This is because when Pleating the to Sett you find your repeat and add or subtract one pleat reveal.

This is why so few kilts are Box-Pleated to the Sett. The large Pleat reveal causes you to use up fabric at a prodigious rate and have the In Pleats overlapping similar to Knife Pleats. Or you end up with the In Pleats so shallow as to decrease the swish to nothing and cause the Pleats to gape open in an unsightly manner.

BULL!

The difference between pleating to sett and to stripe on a box-pleat is SIMPLY the size of each pleat. The ACTUAL material is the SAME!
I have a USA Bicentennial and MacNeil box pleat to set and several to stripe. They BOTH use 4 yards of material (44 inch hip measurement).
They are BOTH 3 layers deep (outer facing, inner facing, and the "cross" piece between them-the front underpleat).
ALL that is different is the SIZE of that box.
For example, 6 inch sett/full repeat:
2 inch wide facing to stripe, for 24 inches of pleating makes 12 pleats and uses 72 inches of material (12 pleats times 6 inches per pleat).
3 inch wide facing to sett (using 1/2 of total repeat for the facing), for 8 pleats and uses 72 inches (8 pleats times 9 inches used per pleat).

I have hand sewn 8 worsted wool box pleats (and played with several using crappier wool):
Caledonia (13 oz to stripe)
X Marks (13 oz to stripe)
Wallace (16 oz to stripe)
Carolina (16 oz to stripe)
MacNeil (16 oz to sett)
USA Bicentennial (16 oz to sett)
Gordon (18 oz to stripe for Turpin)
Wilson Ancient (16 oz to stripe-> actually to HALF repeat, as it is to the red/orange on green)

ALL use 4 yards!

Still to make:
Gordon (18 oz to stripe)
X Marks (16 oz to stripe)
BOTK (13 oz to stripe)
Wilson's Carolina to ? (have to see the material first)
Tweed to ?
Plus a few more


That is NOT including my first box pleat, which is seen in the 2006 Greenville Games picts.