Montrose Doublet

[slohairt]

Sean, as one Irirsh man to another, I'm going to have to disagree with you, just a tad, over the use of "regulation" vs "standard" when describing doublets. In my admittedly far from complete collection of scottish outfitters catalogues (1910 up through the mid 50s) a gentleman's evening doublet is repeatedly referred to as a standard doublet. In Renton's catalogue (c.1950 but definately post-WWII) they list a bandsman's jacket as "our regulation doublet" and the illustration shows a typical standing collar, button up the front, band jacket. Similar to, but different than, the illustration of a "standard evening doublet" elsewhere in their catalogue. I believe that the term "regulation" comes from the fact the the bandsmans jackets conform in style to the "regulation pattern" of those worn by the army.

Interestingly, it is not until the introduction of the Prince Charlie Coatee that most outfitters begin to call their doublets "standard" as in "our standard doublet", probably to give a boost to the sales of the then new (and certinly cheaper to make) PCC. Early catalogues simply refer to a doublet or evening doublet.

It would be intersting to know when and how the word "regulation" came to be applied to the civilian doublet. I suspect it may be a carry over from the Lord Chamberlain's rules for dress worn at Court (a doublet is required for Scottish levee dress) but that is pure speculation on my part.

Now if bandsmen do not wear "regulation doublets", what do they wear?

With best regards from a Wicklow man--

It would be hard to say when any change in terminology occurred. Virtually every website or catalogue today refers to what I call the Regulation Doublet (or coatee) as the Regulation Doublet. The other variety, worn by bandsmen seem to be called a "Piper's Doublet" these days.

Le gach dhea-mhéin as fear Dhúin na nGall go fear Chill Mhantáin!

[Phil]

It would be hard to say when any change in terminology occurred. Virtually every website or catalogue today refers to what I call the Regulation Doublet (or coatee) as the Regulation Doublet. The other variety, worn by bandsmen seem to be called a "Piper's Doublet" these days.

Le gach dhea-mhéin as fear Dhúin na nGall go fear Chill Mhantáin!

It seems virtually every supplier has their own name. Stewart Christie here in Edinburgh illustrate this as a dress doublet (note the belts worn over it and it is worn with a jabot and red waistcoat. They say the waistcoat can also be tartan to match the kilt or velvet or cloth to match the doublet). I think the "regulation" name probably came about because this was the required dress for Court (royal) functions and was called levee dress -