A couple of points. The measuring technique where you measure straight down vertically from the stomach is my system. It will only work with my kilts. That's because I then do things with those numbers that are not appearant when the kilt is built.

If you are using Barb's book use her measuring system.

About your box pleats. I would discourage against many small Box Pleats. Remember, the depth of the pleat is 1/2 the width of the reveal in a box pleat. So, for example if your box pleats are 1" wide they are only 1/2" deep.
Much of your swish factor will come from the depth of the pleat. In a knife pleat you will end up with 2"and sometimes 3" of depth depending on the Sett of the Tartan. If using a solid color you can make the depth whatever you want and most will opt for the deepest pleat that they have sufficient fabric for.