I'm on a tear: next kilt is on the table.

**Alan H** · 8th September 08, 12:01 PM

I've always liked the Lindsay tartan. The deep wine-red color appeals to me. Since that's the case I bought 6 yards of it some time ago for the X-Skirt experiment....an experiment along the lines of the X-Kilt, but that never really caught on here at X-Marks.

Besides, as I age, I discover that I look better standing next to some sweet young thing, even if said "thing" is married to another gentleman.. Well, the F-H.C.A.G. is sweet and young, and often available for standing next to, and I did make her a Lindsay skirt, so I might as well make myself a Lindsay kilt to stand next to her in, don'tchathink?

Ergo....the 6 yards of lightish-weight Lindsay 60/40 wool/polyester from Fraser and Kirkbright....the stuff left over from the X-Skirt experiment, is taking form on the kitchen table right now. The piece I have is 26 1/2 inches wide (and 6 yards long) which is cutting it mighty close, eh? Not only that, but it's raw-edge on all sides, as I used the nice selvedged edges to make the skirts. So since I didn't have a lot to work with I had to grit my teeth, serge the bedickens out of one edge, turn it up as little as I could get away with, and hem it. Since I was starting out "compromised" from the git-go I didn't bother to blind-stitch the hem, I just sewed it down about 1/8th of an inch from the turn-over. The kilt police will shudder, but I say...I'm bigger than they are, so TOUGH. Nobody but the kilt police will care two hoots that it's hemmed.

If I *very* carefully cut off 2 1/2 inches at the top, and sew with care, I will have enough for a narrow-ish waistband and will still have a 23 1/2 inch long kilt, which is fine. I'll have enough for buckle straps, too, but I expect the sporran straps won't match the tartan pattern.. Ah, well, so be it. It's a lightweight knockaround. I have to say that so far, on the table, this is a handsome-looking kilt.

It has 24 deep pleats (the sett is 6+ inches) and I'm pleating to stripe but the stripe is VERY subtle, in fact it's so subtle that I almost can't see it in the artificial light in the house. It'll probably pop out in the sunlight, though, so I have to be careful.

The pleats are all pinned in, ditto for the over-apron, now I just have to iron the snot out of the pleats. To topstitch, or not to topstitch? I'll probably topstitch the pleats in the fell since the hem has already "compromised" this kilt.

Pics to come when it's done. Honestly, I think this one is going to look really nice, even if it's a lightweight and has some compromised details.

**Mr. Woolery** · 8th September 08, 01:19 PM

How is that blend for a kilt? I realize it will be light in weight, but I have sort of resisted purchasing any of the F&K blend material because I have no real idea how well it will work (drape, swish, hold pleats).

I like Lindsay, too. Rather understated in a very self-assured way.

-Patrick

**Arlen** · 8th September 08, 01:41 PM

Alan, having seen your other work I think that even as a lightweight knockaround this Kilt will look fantastic.
I am excited to see the pictures.

**Pleater** · 8th September 08, 03:48 PM

In the same strait, I would make the need for a hem and counteract the light weight part of the same solution.

A dark cotton tape about one inch wide, sewn onto the lower edge and then turned up will form the hem and add extra weight.

I would also use the tape as the back of the waistband to get just a little more length.

When I was making costumes it was necessary to know these tricks to make a garment look and behave like something made from a more substantial material, and to squeeze the maximum amount of garment out of the minimum of cloth.

Anne the Pleater

**Alan H** · 8th September 08, 04:27 PM

Originally Posted by Pleater

In the same strait, I would make the need for a hem and counteract the light weight part of the same solution.

A dark cotton tape about one inch wide, sewn onto the lower edge and then turned up will form the hem and add extra weight.

I would also use the tape as the back of the waistband to get just a little more length.

When I was making costumes it was necessary to know these tricks to make a garment look and behave like something made from a more substantial material, and to squeeze the maximum amount of garment out of the minimum of cloth.

Anne the Pleater

Brilliant, Anne! The next dram is on me! I shall do exactly as you say for the waistband (too late for the hem, but I'll remember this).

**Alan H** · 8th September 08, 04:31 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Woolery

How is that blend for a kilt? I realize it will be light in weight, but I have sort of resisted purchasing any of the F&K blend material because I have no real idea how well it will work (drape, swish, hold pleats).

I like Lindsay, too. Rather understated in a very self-assured way.

-Patrick

It's fine. I have a kilt, a six-yard pleated to sett, of the gray stuff the F&K has had on their remnants page forever. It's the same blend as this stuff. My kilt has a lot of pleats, which helps. I turned up about 2 inches into a rather large hem, (blind stitched) which as Anne suggests, adds weight and help the kilt hang better.

In fact the swing...heresy.....is BETTER than my heavyweight kilts. It holds pleats just fine. Big Mikey has a kilt out of the same stuff, made for him by Freedom kilts. On the other hand, I wouldn't want to wear it out and about on a windy day without a substantial kilt pin! LOL

It's not as robust a material as heavyweight wool, and so it won't be an heirloom. As such I would NOT consider making a 4-yard kilt out of it, but BeeDee has made a box-pleat out of it and seems happy with it. I have my doubts. But six yards, and certainly eight...not a problem.

**Tartan Hiker** · 8th September 08, 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by Alan H

As such I would NOT consider making a 4-yard kilt out of it, but BeeDee has made a box-pleat out of it and seems happy with it. I have my doubts. But six yards, and certainly eight...not a problem.

I concur. I made a 4yd box pleat with this same fabric and it was just way too light. I cut it apart and made a kid's kilt out of it.
I had 6 yards double-width left, so I made a six-yard knife pleat for MadBagpiper. It works very well, and I'm going to make up the other six into one for myself some day...

**The F-H.C.A.G.** · 9th September 08, 08:16 AM

Originally Posted by Alan H

...Well, the F-H.C.A.G. is sweet...

Who are you calling sweet?! Watch your mouth Alan, pretty soon people will start to call me nice and then where will my reputation be?

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product at the next kilt night.

Be well,

Star

**Ranald** · 10th September 08, 02:40 AM

As we've already seen you make great kilts , can't what to see this one too.

**Alan H** · 10th September 08, 10:53 AM

I ironed the schnozzola out of the pleats this morning, and set ' em. I also trimmed off the top bit from which to make the waistband and I *THINK* I have enough to do OK without using the brilliant Anne the Pleater's notion about adding a cotton tape. The strip is about 2.5 inches wide. that should give me about a 3/4 inch wide waistband, which is smallish, but fine.