Thank you Ardchoille! The stitching is the same as for my other xkilts. It's topstitched near the edge (with double-duty polyester/polyester thread from Coat & Clarks).
I work on one pleat at a time but I fold in the second pleat next to it - like Barb's book says - to stitch 4 layers. Following chalk marks, I fold it and pin-baste it at 3 or 4 points (2 on one pleat and 2 on the next pleat; one near the waist band, the other near the bottom of the fell), then machine-stitch. You need two pleats anyway to form one pleat joint.
Oh I didn't cut any inside pleat fabric away - there's no problem with bulkiness and steeking becomes unnecessary.
The fabric is 100% polyester and sueded (which causes a lot of give in the fabric, a challenge).
14 pleats (7 on each side) of 2" pleat size at the hips. The front apron is about 14", a bit wider than my typical xkilt. I prefer wider front aprons anyway.
Oh, I also put
2 deep pleats, one each on both left and right edges of the pleated section. I find that if the last pleat isn't deep enough, it'll cause the pleat to bunch up when seated and spill its guts out as you stand up.
In kingussie pleating, it's symmetrical to the other half (where you normally would have a deep pleat anyway), so why not duplicate that symmetry (and keep it symmetrical, LOL). (Nobody told me this, I just thought these things out as I went - in the spirit of the Xkilt).

Bookmarks