Sewing Machine problems

[Eric Peterson]

The machine I use is a 1926 Singer Model 66, picked up at a junk shop for about 50 bucks 20 years ago. I have seen similar models around for the same or less....I recently tried to use my wife's walmart special. I got it looping on the bottom right off the bat then gave it back to her. I use a med to heavy thread with the tension set high on top and bottom. Here is a link to my machine...http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/r...x.html?t=43389

[sydnie7]

This is what I've suspected. What kind of machine did you get for $200?

Dale

I bought an Omega model from this fellow. So far it has sewn everything I can jam under the presser foot. For the same money, you might be able to find an older Singer "industrial" portable, if you have the time to look around. The Omega isn't perfect but it is doing what I need done, and I didn't have the luxury of time to wait for the right used machine to come along.

All the posts about tension and needles and such -- the first post explains that this has happened on multiple machines. Yes, all the things mentioned could be the cause of problem on an individual machine, but I think we are talking about a larger issue here.

[SteveB]

I have a White "Jeans Machine" that sews very well through four or five layers of heavy denim. I use my Singer for regular work, and the White for the heavy work. Yes, it means setting up two spools of thread and two bobbins, but it is well worth it when dealing with variable layers on a sewing project.

Slainte

[Canuck]

When you begin sewing do you hold both the tails of the bobbin thread and the top thread?

[Eujeankilt]

When you begin sewing do you hold both the tails of the bobbin thread and the top thread?

Yes, I do. If I don't the needle tends to un-thread itself.

It seems to be worse when I attach belt loops and buckles. I do five or six stitches, then 5 or 6 back, then 5 or 6 forward, to tack the little bugger down.

Could thread size be the issue?

I've tried different (brand new needles) from 14 to 18 including one specifically for denim and other tight weave fabrics.

Thanks for your input Robert, it's greatly appreciated!

Dale

[Canuck]

Yes, I do. If I don't the needle tends to un-thread itself.

It seems to be worse when I attach belt loops and buckles. I do five or six stitches, then 5 or 6 back, then 5 or 6 forward, to tack the little bugger down.

Could thread size be the issue?

I've tried different (brand new needles) from 14 to 18 including one specifically for denim and other tight weave fabrics.

Thanks for your input Robert, it's greatly appreciated!

Dale

Best work this through one solution at a time.
1) New needle making sure the eye of the needle is square facing the bobbin (the slot in the needle faces away from the bobbin).
2) make sure the bobbin is threaded properly some rotate clockwise others counter clockwise, and when you pull the tread from the bobbin there should be slight resistance
3) It is possible that the thread tension isn't tight enough. (also check to see that the thread is firmly placed in the tension wheel and of course properly threaded.
4) Different thread thicknesses require different tension. I always check(well most of the time) on a scrap piece of material.

This bunching up mostly happens when you are sewing multiple layers (4-6 thick)?
It is possible the machines you are using just can't handle this thickness. I have found the older straight stitch (like the black 1930's era singer) have the strength and presser foot height and tension to do the job.

[Peter C.]

I bought a $120 Brother XR65 machine from walmart and have sewn the waist band on a 16oz tank with no problem and I have made a soft leather bag for my smallpipes on it.

In the manual it states that locks underneath the fabric mean the upper tension is too loose and locks on the surface mean the upper tension is too tight.

I did a test run to set the tension for the waist band of the kilt by stitching through six layers of 16oz tartan and two layers of canvas and the machine did it effortlessly

Peter

[The Wizard of BC]

What I have found when experiencing the same problem in my early days of making Kilt by machine is this;

If the machine is sewing nicely on fewer layers but bird's nesting when you add layers this is usually what is going on.

The extra layers of cloth are causing just enough friction on the top thread to override the top tension of the machine.

An explanation.
As your needle goes down through the cloth the top thread rides in a small groove in the needle. The top tension is supposed to pull gently up on it to keep it taut underneath.
When the needle reaches the bottom of its downstroke and the hook passes the bobbin thread through the top thread the top tensision is released to allow for some slack.
Then the needle starts it upstroke and the top tension engages again pulling on the top thread hard to pull the bobbin thread up and into the cloth to form the lock stitch.

With many layers of cloth the friction of the thread through the cloth is sometimes enough to override the top tension. This can result in a ball of thread on the bottom of the stitch line.

Possible causes;

You needle may be too small a diameter. The smaller the needle the smaller the groove it has. You should match your needle with the thread you are using. Insure that the thread is not so thick that it will not tuck completely into the groove in the needle.

The top tension may be either too loose or may have fuzz stuck in it. I would check for dirt or lint between the tension plates. I would also check (If the machine is over a year or two old) that the plates are not worn. Mine will get a small groove worn in them and sometimes need to be smooothed out with a piece of 1200grit sand paper.

The top tension should be tightened as the thickness of your cloth increases. Not much but noticable. As a rule of thumb, with the machine stopped and the needle in its full up position, pull backwards on the tail of the top thread. There should be enough tension on the thread to cause it to bend the needle. When in doubt tighten the top tension.

Although not usually the problem but a possible contributing factor is bobbin tension. To check bobbin tension remove the bobbin and its case from the machine and hold it by the thread. Then bounce the bobbing and case up and down sort of like a yoyo. The tension on the bobbin thread should be just enough to allow the thread to slowly unwind a little on each downstroke. When in doubt back off the bobbin tension.

To check if everything is working try this;

Start sewing with four layers of your fabric. Sew enough of a line of stitches so that you can lift the fabric and check the underside of the stitch line.

Look to see if the bobbin thread has been pulled up and into the hole thru two of the four layers.

Then add two layers of cloth and stitch again. Re-check the underside of the cloth. The bobbin thread should now be pulled up into the hole of three layers and the top thread is still in three layers.

Continue adding two layers of fabric and checking the bottom of the stitch line.

Proper tension is when the top and bottom threads are pulled into the cloth and meet in the exact middle of your layers.

Another good tension short cut is the do this same test but with the machine set to zigzag. You can very quickly see correct tension settings if either the top or bottom thead is laying flat and the other pulled all the way through all the layers.

If this still doesn't fix your problem PM or Skype me and I'll try to help more.

[sydnie7]

When checking tension, I like to put two different colors of thread into machine -- makes it VERY easy to see what Wizard is describing.

[Alan H]

Great thread!!...

pun intentional