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30th June 09, 09:16 AM
#1
 Originally Posted by psyopper
One last question. I understand a box pleat and a knife edge pleat, but can someone describe a reverse Kingusse pleat?
It's what Utilikilts, and a number of other contemporary kilts are. A traditional kilt has knife pleats, all opening towards the right hip. A reverse Kingussie pleated kilt has knife pleats going towards the back; they meet in the center back, in a box pleat. It's got some advantages over traditional pleating; it's easier to sit in, for one.
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30th June 09, 09:32 AM
#2
Interesting. Thank you for clarifying this, I had presumed this to be the natural way to make a knife edge kilt, but only shows my ignorance towards traditional kilt making.
 Originally Posted by vorpallemur
It's what Utilikilts, and a number of other contemporary kilts are. A traditional kilt has knife pleats, all opening towards the right hip. A reverse Kingussie pleated kilt has knife pleats going towards the back; they meet in the center back, in a box pleat. It's got some advantages over traditional pleating; it's easier to sit in, for one.
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You got the idea of my suggestion right - you might find that if you want to make something a bit more formal that it requires the pleats to be a bit more sleekit down.
I think that the length of straight stitching required would depend on the type of fabric, some being more compliant than others.
I am a great admirer of the double box pleated kilts produced by Lady Crystal (that might not be spelt right) which look exceedingly neat and wonderfully well made.
The reverse Kingussie kilts I make are perfect mirror images, the left side being as a normal knife pleat, except that I make the centre back pleat twice the depth of the small pleats, and about the same size as the under apron pleat. I find this arrangement suitable for vaulting gates and getting over styles and fences, should that become necessary.
I started out making Kingussie style kilts, but found that the forward facing pleats caught on every bit of vegetation, door and drawer handles - so it was rapidly altered to backward facing pleats even before I knew that was already a preferred option and had a name.
Anne the Pleater :ootd:
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