X Marks the Scot - An on-line community of kilt wearers.
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23rd October 09, 06:47 AM
#1
I've seen one where the shaping was done entirely with canvas and the iron. Very impressive bit of work
Nice! I'd love to have seen that in person.
I've been buying the magazine Threads over the years and every now and then, they will dissect a designer's garment to show how the designer achieves the underlying shape. I've read how to shape the top of a sleeve without gathers using wool canvas and steam, but an upper jacket would be really amazing!
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23rd October 09, 07:33 AM
#2
 Originally Posted by Dixiecat
Nice! I'd love to have seen that in person.
I've been buying the magazine Threads over the years and every now and then, they will dissect a designer's garment to show how the designer achieves the underlying shape. I've read how to shape the top of a sleeve without gathers using wool canvas and steam, but an upper jacket would be really amazing!
It's standard practice in bespoke and high end RTW tailoring. The shape of the jacket is set by the canvas front pieces (which depending on the maker and the price point, can be a whole bunch of little pieces, with darts, stretching, snipped and spread pieces, or one piece, with pad stitching to give it some shape.), with the outer cloth following that shape. (And not the shape of the wearer, which is why men look good in suits.)
Jeffrey Diduch has a good blog on tailoring (he does work both by hand, and for factories; he may well have written the pieces in threads). http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/
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