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2nd November 09, 03:31 PM
#1
Advice that is not in the book - use lots of pins. That little piece of advice is not in the book, because my co-author is absolutely rabid about not pinning. But I find that, if I pin, I make better pleats and don't wind up taking out half of them. And I can stitch 5-6 pleats an hour even with pinning, so I don't buy Elsie's argument that pinning slows you down.
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2nd November 09, 06:34 PM
#2
Barb (& thanks again) yes, I DO use more pins! I also found some of those 'extra hands", I was wishing for ( we'll haveta see how well it turns out):

the idea occurred to me, and I thought I'd give it a try! Using a 16"diameter embroidery hoop

By the way, Barb, I keep forgetting to ask: why do we wax the thread, for stitching the pleats? The book doesn't say; to reduce snarls?
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2nd November 09, 09:21 PM
#3
well ... using an embroidery hoop was NOT a good idea! Had to ripp out all those stitched (grrrrr!)
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2nd November 09, 09:51 PM
#4
 Originally Posted by Barb T.
Advice that is not in the book - use lots of pins. That little piece of advice is not in the book, because my co-author is absolutely rabid about not pinning. But I find that, if I pin, I make better pleats and don't wind up taking out half of them. And I can stitch 5-6 pleats an hour even with pinning, so I don't buy Elsie's argument that pinning slows you down.
Pins certainly slow me down when sewing anything else. I've not yet done a kilt to the methods in the book, but I'd expect they'd slow me down there, too. I use them when I want to look at how something will look and for hemming and the like, but not during actual sewing.
One thing I'm surprised the book doesn't suggest is using pre-waxed thread. You can get it in a skein, instead a spool. cut it at one end, and you've got a bunch of thread all the same length, of the right length. Saves a heck of lot of time.
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