Cleaned up basket hilt

[klingon warrior]

At the risk of being attacked by all you guys who realize that a museum piece shouldn't be steel wooled, I'm going to put my two cents in. Sometimes, you might want to make the thing shine instead of looking like it came from the bottom of some moat. IF THAT IS THE CASE, try soaking it in EVAPO-RUST first. This stuff can be purchased from AutoZone stores and it dissolves the rust.......not the steel. It removes the rust with abosolute minimal damage unlike elbow grease and any kind of abrasive anything. Once the rust is gone, you have a choice to oil it and forget it or maybe then use the abrasive stuff. That being said........if something truly IS a museum piece, don't do anything to it to devalue it.

[Jack Daw]

That's a nice Bowie knife, Greg!

[Old Hippie]

Nice looking basket-hilt!

I've been a member of Sword Forum International for years -- constant lurker, sometime contributor. Some of the best writing about traditional Scottish weapons is by Dale Seago. Not to plug another forum here, but you check it out you may find some useful information.

There are modern makers who specialize in making basket hilts. They will customize swords from other modern makers -- in fact, if you tell many sword makers who's making your basket hilt, they'll simply ship the blade to the hilt maker for finishing.

I wish I had the wrists for broadsword.

And yeah -- NEVER rework an old sword. It's irreplaceable.

:ootd:

[fluter]

That's a nice looking sword, Greg. I've always wanted nice basket hilt but could never really justify the expense. (I can't believe I just said that on this forum! )

Hee hee. I don't want much: just the Lady Vivamus by Albion.

[james a. husky]

Do folks want me to detail how we used to take care of issues like this?


Like sand and boiling hot water for scouring the musket and brick dust for polish? It works well, just needs a lot of elbow grease to keep the metal bright.

As an artifact collector, I understand the importance of keeping things looking "Gen". Yet the reenactor in me requires the maintenance of items to be as it would have been when they were actually being used.

It amuses me that the "distressed" French farmhouse look, with the peeling paint and flaking plaster with exposed bricks is so desirable, when in reality, a person of that imagined romatic period whould have been horrified to have his home look so "ghetto"!

I DO use artifacts for their intended purposes from time to time, and those items are maintained in excellent condition, reflecting the way their previous owners would have kept them. An attitude that drives an archeologist friend of mine completely bonkers!

Jim aka kiltiemon

[Howard Clark]

A smiths point of view is sometimes unwelcome amongst collectors, and I think you are spot on, Jim! No self respecting fighting man would jab his sword into the ground, nor tolerate rust on it in the interest of patina. Black stains, perhaps, but only until it could be properly cleaned.

I am always amused by the "hammered" surface of some things made to look like they were made by a smith with fire and hammer. Often as not it is cold worked dents made with a ball piene hammer. A real blacksmith works to minimize the finishing required, which means as smooth a surface as he can make, generally.


The people who used swords for their intended purpose maintained them as best they could.

A real, sharp, properly made sword is a thing of power and beauty, whenever and wherever it was made.

Enjoy your sword, and keep it clean and sharp.

[bigdad1]

Don't mess with it. More harm has come from well intentioned cleanings than you know.

Which I blame on my Mother for making me wash my face when I was little and still cute. Now look at me. She swore a little soap and water never hurt anyone. HAH!!

[Strings]

Like sand and boiling hot water for scouring the musket and brick dust for polish? It works well, just needs a lot of elbow grease to keep the metal bright.

Heh... I ran a professional metal refinishing shop. We used a 120 grit emory belt to rough a piece, followed by a dry 320, then a "grease" 320 (actual grease used, interspersed with diesel fuel to keep it "wet). Then a sizel buff, and possibly a color-buff.

Might omit early stages if there wasn't that much damage to deal with (or for fragile stuff). But at LEAST a grease belt to start. And I was able to a damn-near optical finish.

Of course now, you don't want me to see the chrome you've had redone on your Harley: most shops do NOT do the necessary pre-polishing anymore...

[Nerts]

That is one pretty looking sword! I have a baskethilt and am in COMPLETE love with them. Good job!

E.

[MarkMcM]

I've been a member of Sword Forum International for years -- constant lurker, sometime contributor. Some of the best writing about traditional Scottish weapons is by Dale Seago. Not to plug another forum here, but you check it out you may find some useful information...

Thanks for the kind words!

Mark ~