I have been to Mull and can't remember it smelling that different to the rest of Scotland!

I recall that when it first came into usage in the UK it referred to the growing of crops/vegetables etc that had not been sprayed with insecticide or chemical fertilisers and that the fertiliser was supplied by manure only.

Then the labelling guys saw ways of using the word to make the produce sound more environmentally produced than it actually was along with other meaningless phrases like "low fat", "no added sugar", "made in the UK" which produced a lot of confusion. Regulations vary considerably and no assumptions can be made that all synthetic additives are banned.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_certification makes interesting reading.

Having said that, I am Jonesing with Hamish anyway!