Making my first kilt - opinions please!

[The Wizard of BC]

As the fabric you are using is Cotton I would strongly suggest you edge stitch the inside and outside creases of each and every pleat.

It also looks from the photos that you have very deep pleats.
In Tartan fabric the average size of the Tartan pattern is 6"-8". This determines the depth of the pleats. In non Tartan fabric we are not limited to any one particular size but I have found by experimentation that a Sett size of 7"-9" works best. With non-Wool fabrics you need a little more fabric because Cottons and Poly/Cottons are a bit stiffer than Wool.

(Just so we are using the same terms what I mean by Sett size that is the distance from one pleat edge to the same edge on the next pleat.)

I would also strongly suggest that you taper your apron edges. Cottons and Poly/Cottons usually require a lot more taper than Wool so don't use the instructions in "The Art of Kiltmaking" to determine your amount of Taper.

When you taper you will have to use straight lines. This is because non Wool fabrics don't mold with steam as well as Wool does.

And one last thing. You say your pleat reveal is 3cm. That is perfectly fine. But I have found that with Camo fabric narrow pleats tend to get quite busy. Try pleating this Camo up with a pleat reveal of around 3.8cm and then step back as far as you can and look at the effect. Then choose which you like best. Usually, non-Traditional Kilts have pleat reveals of between 2.54cm and 6.35cm. I use 2.45cm for my narrow pleats and 3.81cm for my wide pleats.

I hope these hints help.

[Stilletto_Rebel]

Ok, I found the thread Sydnie mentioned: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/l...x.html?t=40778. There's some excellent tips there!

It also looks from the photos that you have very deep pleats. In Tartan fabric the average size of the Tartan pattern is 6"-8". This determines the depth of the pleats. In non Tartan fabric we are not limited to any one particular size but I have found by experimentation that a Sett size of 7"-9" works best. With non-Wool fabrics you need a little more fabric because Cottons and Poly/Cottons are a bit stiffer than Wool.

My sett size is 33cm (13"). I'll reduce it to 8"

I would also strongly suggest that you taper your apron edges. Cottons and Poly/Cottons usually require a lot more taper than Wool so don't use the instructions in "The Art of Kiltmaking" to determine your amount of Taper.

How much taper would you recommend?

When you taper you will have to use straight lines. This is because non Wool fabrics don't mold with steam as well as Wool does.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean with tapering with straight lines.

And one last thing. You say your pleat reveal is 3cm. That is perfectly fine. But I have found that with Camo fabric narrow pleats tend to get quite busy. Try pleating this Camo up with a pleat reveal of around 3.8cm and then step back as far as you can and look at the effect. Then choose which you like best. Usually, non-Traditional Kilts have pleat reveals of between 2.54cm and 6.35cm. I use 2.45cm for my narrow pleats and 3.81cm for my wide pleats.

I hope these hints help.

Cool, thanks. I'll try a pleat reveal of 3.8cm when I reduce my sett to 8".

[Pleater]

Are you sure that the outer folds of the pleats are on the straight grain of the fabric?

I find that pressing the outer folds into the strip of fabric before doing any multiple foldings makes things a lot easier.

I always work on the part of the fabric which will be concealed once the sewing is done, and use a pressing cloth.

Once the outer folds are done I then fold up the kilt to the hip measurement and press the inner folds from the lower edge up to the hip line. On some kilts I sew a few stitches at the lower edge to hold the fold, and provide a guide for future pressings.

I then start to sew the top, narrowing the pleats to the waist measurement.

The under apron pleats are sewn last, and I lift the inner fold about one half inch, pin it and try on the kilt. If the apron edge is pulled in I reduce the amount of lift until the pleat lies flat. This makes a long slender triangle of fabric raised above the top edges of the aprons, but it is easily hidden in the waist band.

I found it really difficult, once the kilt was sewn, to press the pleats hard enough to set the folds without also getting an imprint of the folds beneath showing on the outside of the kilt, so I did the first pressing before forming the pleats and that seems to work for me.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: