Montrose Doublet owners, a favor please

[OC Richard]

It is still being made and in Scotland. We have these made up for our customers on occasion and in fact I think it is one of the best cuts of jacket for kilt dress.

Every time there's a thread where I mention or show that old jacket style, which was nearly univerally worn by civilian pipers from the mid-19th century up through the early years of the 20th, somebody posts saying that they're still being made. However I have repeatedly asked for someone to post a link or a photo actually showing one, and over the last few years no one has yet done so.

Anyhow, here's the clearest photo I have showing the exact cut of this style:



and more:





The earliest depiction I have of this style is from 1865:



The latest depiction I've come across is from a 1940 catalogue:



More rare, but sometimes seen, is a style with the lower-cut front similar to our modern Regulation Doublet:



In any case it makes me wonder why since 1900 we started to put military-style standing collars on some of our civilian formal jacket styles.

This, to me, has everything to do with the original post, which was about how to wear old-fashioned neckwear with a formal Scottish jacket. This modern formal look of a military-style standing collar combined with a lace jabot doesn't appeal to me all that much.

[Teufel Hunden]

This, to me, has everything to do with the original post, which was about how to wear old-fashioned neckwear with a formal Scottish jacket.

Absolutely. I'm leaning towards the Montrose over the styles you posted, BUT, there's a lot I don't know about Highland formal wear in general, so all posts are welcome. You've given me some other options to talk over with the future missus.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Absolutely. I'm leaning towards the Montrose over the styles you posted, BUT, there's a lot I don't know about Highland formal wear in general, so all posts are welcome. You've given me some other options to talk over with the future missus.

You do know that Montrose doublets can get very warm? If your evening out is going to include much in the way of physical exertion-- such as dancing-- you might want to reconsider your choice of styles.

[Teufel Hunden]

You do know that Montrose doublets can get very warm? If your evening out is going to include much in the way of physical exertion-- such as dancing-- you might want to reconsider your choice of styles.

Yep, I had heard that. I don't mind a little heat... i spent a couple years in Iraq and Kuwait, as well as my groomsmen, so dancing in a doublet under the air conditioning shouldn't bother us too much. I don't mind sacrificing a little comfort in favor of the look in this case.

[JSFMACLJR]

Every time there's a thread where I mention or show that old jacket style, which was nearly univerally worn by civilian pipers from the mid-19th century up through the early years of the 20th, somebody posts saying that they're still being made. However I have repeatedly asked for someone to post a link or a photo actually showing one, and over the last few years no one has yet done so.

I think my doublet comes pretty close to what you have in mind. It was made in 2006 by my London tailors Meyer & Mortimer.

[MacLowlife]

TH, I saw on eBay a double breasted blazer described as WELSH GUARDS' EQUINE BLAZER. It is interesting because it has two columns of four buttons and a much higher neck opening than is customary for civilian double breasted jackets. It looks to me like it could easily be chopped off to kilt / waist length. That would give you a Double Breasted doublet with lapels and a suitable tie space for a cravat or bow.

Here is the link. Even if this one doesn't fit, it might serve as a pattern or example for you:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

A traditional Navy uniform (dress blue ) jacket might be similar, but again, there's that whole Corps thing going on.

[Phil]

The Montrose or Military doublet was THE formal jacket in my younger days. It is a very hot (and restrictive) garment and I would not recommend it to anyone. JSFMACLJR's picture is a much more sensible alternative. With the advent of central heating the old ideas of thick, padded clothing have changed to a more modern, cooler style. One that you can unbutton to let the air in!

[Teufel Hunden]

This thread turned out to be much more interesting than I originally thought it would. Thanks everyone!

TH, I saw on eBay a double breasted blazer described as WELSH GUARDS' EQUINE BLAZER. It is interesting because it has two columns of four buttons and a much higher neck opening than is customary for civilian double breasted jackets. It looks to me like it could easily be chopped off to kilt / waist length. That would give you a Double Breasted doublet with lapels and a suitable tie space for a cravat or bow.

Here is the link. Even if this one doesn't fit, it might serve as a pattern or example for you:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Hmm. That's pretty cool. I might pick it up and see if my tailor can do anything with it. With a good starting pattern, I could make essentially whatever I want.

A traditional Navy uniform (dress blue ) jacket might be similar, but again, there's that whole Corps thing going on.

Nah, I wouldn't consider wearing a Navy style to be sacrilegious or anything. I'd just draw the line at wearing a current Marine Corps uniform top or something along those lines.