My understanding it that the copyright to the Army tartan is held by Alexis Malcolm and Strathmore Mills. I believe Marton Mills pays a royalty to weave the Army tartan in Polyviscose.

I have heard from a reliable source, but don't know for certain, that a popular inexpensive athletic kiltmaker out of Southern California may be having the Army tartan woven without permission of the copyright holders.

IF that were true, it would certainly preclude me from purchasing the Army tartan from that vendor.

Perhaps someone with more knowledge than I could clarify or enlighten me....??