I started with a 13 oz wool 8 yard, pleated to the sett, then another the same but from a different weaver, then a 16oz wool 8 yard pleated to the stripe, two more of the same but pleated to the sett and only yesterday took delivery of 16oz wool IOS pleated to the horizontal. I have one of Matt's Box pleated on order. I also have one WPG military style kilt. I wear them all but think that the IOS will get a thrashing in the near future, because it's new