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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown View Post
    I don't think you have enough fabric to do an historically accurate great kilt. According to most sources the plaid was about six ells of double tartan-- in other words it was about 5 feet wide and about 18 feet long.

    If you have a kilt that matches your length of fabric, you might want to consider making a "top piece" that would give the impression of a great kilt, and which could be removed during the lecture to show how the kilt was transformed during the 17th century.
    Actually, not 6 ells of double tartan, but 6 ells of tartan doubled, for a total length of 3 ells, or about 3-3.5 yards total length - depending on whether you're talking about Scottish (37") or English (45") ells! This was the size plaid issued to Highland enlisted troops in the British army. Civilian plaids could be a bit more generous, but usually no more than 5 yards.

    Remember, the tartan fabric came off the hand looms about 27" wide, so two lengths had to be joined together lengthwise to make the completed plaid, with an approx. 54" width. So, 6 ells of tartan yields a 3 ells in length plaid.
    Brian

    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~ Benjamin Franklin

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodsheal View Post
    Actually, not 6 ells of double tartan, but 6 ells of tartan doubled, for a total length of 3 ells, or about 3-3.5 yards total length - depending on whether you're talking about Scottish (37") or English (45") ells! This was the size plaid issued to Highland enlisted troops in the British army. Civilian plaids could be a bit more generous, but usually no more than 5 yards.

    Remember, the tartan fabric came off the hand looms about 27" wide, so two lengths had to be joined together lengthwise to make the completed plaid, with an approx. 54" width. So, 6 ells of tartan yields a 3 ells in length plaid.
    That was my understanding too.
    "It's all the same to me, war or peace,
    I'm killed in the war or hung during peace."

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodsheal View Post
    Actually, not 6 ells of double tartan, but 6 ells of tartan doubled, for a total length of 3 ells, or about 3-3.5 yards total length - depending on whether you're talking about Scottish (37") or English (45") ells! This was the size plaid issued to Highland enlisted troops in the British army. Civilian plaids could be a bit more generous, but usually no more than 5 yards.

    Remember, the tartan fabric came off the hand looms about 27" wide, so two lengths had to be joined together lengthwise to make the completed plaid, with an approx. 54" width. So, 6 ells of tartan yields a 3 ells in length plaid.

    My understanding as well and basically how I wear mine. I've found that 4 yards of double-width fabric is quite adequate (and more comfortable over the course of a long day).

    Fabric of only 45" in width may not be quite adequate, but you could easily try it on and see. I've used fabric only 47-48" with some successs though the "plaid" section was a bit on the small side though it would certainly work for demonstration purposes. You should gain an inch or so by keeping them hem a few inches above the knees, which is also more historically accurate.
    Virginia Commissioner, Elliot Clan Society, USA
    Adjutant, 1745 Appin Stewart Regiment
    Scottish-American Military Society
    US Marine (1970-1999)

  4. #4
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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Woodsheal View Post
    Actually, not 6 ells of double tartan, but 6 ells of tartan doubled, for a total length of 3 ells, or about 3-3.5 yards total length - depending on whether you're talking about Scottish (37") or English (45") ells! This was the size plaid issued to Highland enlisted troops in the British army. Civilian plaids could be a bit more generous, but usually no more than 5 yards.

    Remember, the tartan fabric came off the hand looms about 27" wide, so two lengths had to be joined together lengthwise to make the completed plaid, with an approx. 54" width. So, 6 ells of tartan yields a 3 ells in length plaid.
    That certainly makes more sense! Interestingly, three different sources mention the 5x18 foot size-- obviously somebody back then didn't do their A Levels in math!

  5. #5
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    Wwwwwweerr
    Quote Originally Posted by Woodsheal View Post
    Actually, not 6 ells of double tartan, but 6 ells of tartan doubled, for a total length of 3 ells, or about 3-3.5 yards total length - depending on whether you're talking about Scottish (37") or English (45") ells! This was the size plaid issued to Highland enlisted troops in the British army. Civilian plaids could be a bit more generous, but usually no more than 5 yards.

    Remember, the tartan fabric came off the hand looms about 27" wide, so two lengths had to be joined together lengthwise to make the completed plaid, with an approx. 54" width. So, 6 ells of tartan yields a 3 ells in length plaid.
    Loudoun's Highlanders were issued 12yds to make a plaid. 3 yds is too little to be effective if one is living & working in a plaid. The Highland troops comlained when financial restrictions caused the government to reduce the amount of cloth from 4 to 3.5 in the late C18th. I've recently examined a civilian plaid c1700-20 that is 18' (6yds) long. I suspect that older plaids were longer & at least 4yds in order to be practical.

  6. #6
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    A possible indicator of the "common" length of plaids would be the length of tartan incorporated in the earliest philabegs - which were simply the bottom portion of a plaid un-joined to a top length. These early "little kilts" utilized only 3 to 4 yards of single-width tartan until well into the 19th C.

    This is not to say that more voluminous examples like the 6-yarder described by figheadair did not exist. Obviously, they did. I doubt if there were any "rules" regarding plaid length - except those imposed upon one by the contents of one's purse!

    Here's another wrinkle: Gen'l David Stewart of Garth in his Sketches at one point describes plaids as having their lengths folded in half before being donned. Look closely at the edge of the Grant Piper's plaid in the famous painting, and evidence of this practice seems apparent:

    Brian

    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~ Benjamin Franklin

  7. #7
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    I thought for a moment that the image might be reversed - but the writing is the correct way - however the kilt is wrapped in what some insist is the lady's way, right over left - and he has the drones on his right shoulder not the left.

    Maybe it wasn't important then?

    Anne the Pleater :ootd:

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pleater View Post
    I thought for a moment that the image might be reversed - but the writing is the correct way - however the kilt is wrapped in what some insist is the lady's way, right over left - and he has the drones on his right shoulder not the left.

    Maybe it wasn't important then?

    Anne the Pleater :ootd:
    This is related to a situation I have myself. I'm left handed. In a reenactment setting, as a clansman, I wrap my great kilt opposite of the norm. In other words, right over left. I do this to avoid the chance of snagging the edge of the plaid when drawing a sword. I know that if I was in the military I would be taught, or simply forced, to use my weapons in a right hand manner. But, I don't think that would have been the case in a clan setting. The first person who noticed I had the kilt wrapped the "wrong way round" thought it was done because I am a piper, to keep the plaid out from under the drones. I know the Pencicuik (sp?) drawings show both left and right handed highlanders. I realize some of the images may have been reversed, but I believe there are a couple that show both in the same image. Additionally, I don't believe that drones on the left shoulder was the "rule" until the pipes were used in the military
    All skill and effort is to no avail when an angel pees down your drones.

  9. #9
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    I did wonder if the piper might be left handed - though not familiar with the pipes many blown instruments are played with the left hand above the right. He has the left hand lower.

    As a southpaw myself I tend to notice handedness.

    Anne the Pleater :ootd:

  10. #10
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    @Pleater, I've taken your advise, hopefully it will come out all right. Will post Pictures at some point!

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