Tuxedo Shirts

[Cygnus]

I've always gone with the following:

Black Tie: turn-down collar, plain, marcella, or pleated front, French cuffs with either double or single cuff links
White Tie: wing collar (detachable), stiff front (though Marcella will do in a pinch), barrel cuffs with boiled-front shirt - French cuffs with the Marcella, with double cuff links in either kind of cuff.

In both cases buttons shouldn't show - they should be covered or you should use studs (black for black tie, mother-of-pearl for white, or silver or gold for either).

I should mention that this isn't for kilted attire, though I imagine the conventions would be similar.