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3rd March 11, 07:47 AM
#1
The best solution, although it requires commitment and faith, may be to buy the tartan, send it to a trusted kiltmaker and have them pin up some pleating options that achieve your goal. Or, you could spend a lot on coffee and a calculator and still not get it right. 
Xman has been known to enjoy some mathematical pre-purchase planning, a PM to him may help you out as well.
Good luck!
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3rd March 11, 08:49 AM
#2
 Originally Posted by MacMillan's son
The best solution, although it requires commitment and faith, may be to buy the tartan, send it to a trusted kiltmaker and have them pin up some pleating options that achieve your goal. Or, you could spend a lot on coffee and a calculator and still not get it right.
Xman has been known to enjoy some mathematical pre-purchase planning, a PM to him may help you out as well.
Good luck!
When a client choses a tartan I try and find out the sett size from the weaver that is making it,and I certainnly try to get a sample before committing my client or indeed me ( as the kiltmaker).Generally the client allows me to have an input into what is possible or impossible, and often we come to a mutal agreement.Even so once I get the tartan on my table to try a couple of different layouts and invite the client to see them, either in person or via photographs. That I am afraid is the only way to be sure that the pleating arrangement will work,and it is really worth having the fabric to try out the possibilities.
I, and probably most kiltmaker spend some time doing sums on the backs of envelopes working out how much fabric we really need, and how much it will actually cost, a real consideration with a custom weave.
Regarding the overlap in a box pleat, a small overlap isn't going to be the end of the world, but remember not all tartans work equally well to the sett or the stripe,and I'd hazard a guess that a very large sett on the pattern might actually prove very difficult to maintain the pattern
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3rd March 11, 09:33 AM
#3
 Originally Posted by MacMillan's son
Xman has been known to enjoy some mathematical pre-purchase planning, a PM to him may help you out as well.
Getting me in trouble now, Terry? 
Okay, I can't find this tartan woven anywhere so it might be a special order in which case you can specify the sett size to achieve whatever effect you like. I would recommend sticking with what has been designated if you can for simplicity's sake. I calculate 300 threads in the count making it about 7.5" - 8" sett size depending on the weave. STR states that it is a modification of Black Watch too so all things being equal, I'd say this should box pleat well to either the centred double red line or the pairs of double red lines with somewhere in the neighbourhood of 2.5" wide pleats. PM me if you like, McElmurry. I can send some jpg's your way.
X
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3rd March 11, 02:02 PM
#4
 Originally Posted by xman
I calculate 300 threads in the count making it about 7.5" - 8" sett size depending on the weave. STR states that it is a modification of Black Watch too so all things being equal, I'd say this should box pleat well to either the centred double red line or the pairs of double red lines with somewhere in the neighbourhood of 2.5" wide pleats. PM me if you like, McElmurry. I can send some jpg's your way.
X
I think I have discovered the source of my confusion. The Tartan Ferret color bar does not match the thread count.

B24 R4 B4 R4 B4 G20 W24 T6 W24 G20 B22 R4 B4 R4 B22 G20 W24 T6 W24 G20 B4 R4 B4 R4
The middle of the triple red stripe should be the beginning of the repeat but the blue 24 appears to be missing. Based on the bar I thought they continued the thread count as a mirror image which creates the triple red stripe. So is the bar correct or is there a blue 24 missing from the bar?
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