Modern tartans- historical tartans

[figheadair]

Would some weaver just see a sett he liked and simply make something roughly similar

Were most tartans based off of setts that already existed at the time?

We have no idea how setts were developed pre-1750 but it's reasonable to assume that some patterns existed at any given time and that there would have been (new) variations based on colours available and/or preference.

were there only certain existing tartans inside specific "rules?"

There is no evidence that there were any 'rules' until the early C19th.

How much room was there for variation?

As there were no rules there was every oportunity for variation.

[PalmerPirate]

We have no idea how setts were developed pre-1750 but it's reasonable to assume that some patterns existed at any given time and that there would have been (new) variations based on colours available and/or preference.



There is no evidence that there were any 'rules' until the early C19th.



As there were no rules there was every oportunity for variation.

Thank you for such a prompt and precise response! I have but one question left to ask- I understand that red is a higher-rank tartan color, but would it be appropriate for somebody who was middle-rank? By that I mean somebody who was upper-middle-rank, if such a thing existed.

[figheadair]

Thank you for such a prompt and precise response! I have but one question left to ask- I understand that red is a higher-rank tartan color, but would it be appropriate for somebody who was middle-rank? By that I mean somebody who was upper-middle-rank, if such a thing existed.

Pre-c1760 a tartan with lots red in it was generally the preserve of the gentry simply because the dyestuff was more expensive. Those with less income might well have opted for a pattern with a red stripe rather than the whole plaid being predominately red.

[Nick the DSM]

Its said that the Morrison Red tartan was created circa or even before the year of Culloden.

[O'Callaghan]

Tartan came to Scotland with the Gaels who came from Ireland, in the form of the brat, which was a cloak. The Gaels also would have brought with them the Brehon law, which did include a 'sumptuary' law laying down numbers of colours and specific colours according to rank or station in life.

However, I'm not sure to what extent the sumptuary law persisted on the Scottish side of the Irish Sea. Perhaps not to any great extent or for any great length of time, but maybe for a time the colours red and purple would have been limited to chiefs or the like.

This sounds like a topic for a history thesis, and I am certainly no historian, but I don't think it was only cost. Of course, the purpose of the sumptuary law was to forbid you from dressing 'above your station', for want of a better expression, so the colours and combinations that were restricted would have necessarily have been more expensive, making it hard to separate cost from actual restrictions.

ETA: Of course, by the 18th century, all such restrictions would be long gone, AFAIK. It would have helped if I'd read the original post first, wouldn't it, LOL.

[figheadair]

Tartan came to Scotland with the Gaels who came from Ireland, in the form of the brat, which was a cloak. The Gaels also would have brought with them the Brehon law, which did include a 'sumptuary' law laying down numbers of colours and specific colours according to rank or station in life.

However, I'm not sure to what extent the sumptuary law persisted on the Scottish side of the Irish Sea. Perhaps not to any great extent or for any great length of time, but maybe for a time the colours red and purple would have been limited to chiefs or the like.

This sounds like a topic for a history thesis, and I am certainly no historian, but I don't think it was only cost. Of course, the purpose of the sumptuary law was to forbid you from dressing 'above your station', for want of a better expression, so the colours and combinations that were restricted would have necessarily have been more expensive, making it hard to separate cost from actual restrictions.

ETA: Of course, by the 18th century, all such restrictions would be long gone, AFAIK. It would have helped if I'd read the original post first, wouldn't it, LOL.

There is no evidence that the use of a number of colours in tartan ever dictated rank. The claim appeared in McClintock's 'Old Irish & Higland Dress' without any historical reference. The claim has long been regarded as false.

[AllenJ]

I'm trying to dig up the exact quote and source but I can not find it at the moment. At any rate...there is a reference in Clan Grant history where one of the pre-Culloden chiefs wanted Grants to be dressed in a tartan that was red and green... "broad-springed" or something like that was the term used. It certainly does not support a specific sett but a color preference for Clan members. But this is a bit of a middle ground between no clan association and specific adoptions of tartans by the clans. The Grants also adopted the Black Watch tartan very early because of the Clan's long association with the regiment.

[figheadair]

Its said that the Morrison Red tartan was created circa or even before the year of Culloden.

Like a lot of tartans 'it's said' but I've not seen the proof. In the case of the Red Morisson the claim is based on the fact that a piece of material was said to have been found in an old Morrison family bible during demolition work on a Black House in Lewis in 1935. The bible contained a hand written reference to the tartan and is said to be dated 1747. If that we true, and the piece was the tartan referenced then it would indeed be a truly old sett.

Unfortunately there are two versions of the sett which suggests some doubt about the correct version. I have never seen either the letter of the sample and have to question its existance/dating. Has anyone ever seen the piece and/or known where there s a picture of it?