Oh Dear! (AKA: the bite of the bug is itching, nearly time to start my 2nd X-Kilt)

[Kirika]

Alright, so today I was able to purchase my fabric. Burgundy Target, from JoAnn's. I bought a bit too much (6 yards, for a 33ish waist ;P. Oh, and thanks to a 50% off coupon on my Ipod, it only cost me 21$ for all of the fabric), but if this goes well I think I might try to make something for my little sister(s). It's a bit darker than my photo, due to a bright flash.. So, I'd like to use some of my leftover black cloth from my first X-Kilt for the underside of the pleats (as seen in the revised manual, I believe NewYorkBen is the member whose kilt is featured like this). However, I'm not really sure how to go about doing this. Do I just pin the extra fabric down as shown in the photo, then just sew it in as normal?

Anyway, here's a photo of the fabric; I can't wait to get started on this one. ^_^

(Oh, one more question. One problem I noticed with my last xkilt is that I prefer to wear it down around my hipbones, instead of at my naval like the instructions say. Would this just mean that I have the waist measurement be lower, and the fell would be shorter, since it'd be from hip bones to the rump measurement?)