HoE Barclay Dress Muted 13oz

[HeathBar]

Sooo how do you intend to pleat it?

To the sett? Maybe a stripe?

Or do we have to wait for the photos?

The sett for this tartan is 6". I am going to use 3" box pleats and use 1.5 setts per pleat. In effect I am pleating it to the sett. Matt gave me the idea before I ordered the material. You don't usually get a box pleat to the sett. We'll see how it goes.

[BAM_Belegarth]

Any new updates?

[Phil]

Like Peter I'm not a big fan of the yellow tartans but this one looks good. Looking forward to the pics when it is made up.

[HeathBar]

Any new updates?

I did mark out the aprons and pleats this morning. No pics of this. I did notice that while marking it out that it was a lot easier to work with two 2yd pieces rather that two 4yd pieces.

Next will be to sew up the pleats. But I will need to get some thread to match. I might just baste up the apron edges in the morning and get the colored thread during lunch tomorrow.

I probably won't have any more pics until the pleats are done.

[HeathBar]

I basted up the aprons this morning. And I got my thread during lunch. While at the fabric store I spotted this tartan material. It was 100% wool and a twill weave. It had a hard finish, so I assume its worsted. It felt light and had a small sett, so probably around 11oz. I reminded me of some of the Irish county tartans. It was $12.99/yd. I might have to go back. For future practice of course.

[Pleater]

Ah - the 'can't walk past fabric without planning kilts' syndrome - oh I know it well - last week I was on holiday, but managed to aquire two lengths of DPM in different colour ways, and maybe enough black wool for an almost 7 yard kilt. With things being measured out in metric it can be difficult to be exact.

I do have some square patterned material - non standard tartans - which so far have been used for pleating to the stripe - but I will - eventually - have to make a kilt to the sett - and it might have to be a military box pleat. I might make it smaller than my present waist size, so that I can wear it either this winter or next - I wouldn't want to finish it only to find it too large.

Any pics of the work in progress?

If you are putting 1.5 sets into each pleat, that will mean that there are 5 layers where the pleats overlap. Will you be cutting away the pleats under the fell or leaving it whole?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

If you are putting 1.5 sets into each pleat, that will mean that there are 5 layers where the pleats overlap. Will you be cutting away the pleats under the fell or leaving it whole?

In a box pelated kilt, Pleater, there are only three layers of overlapping cloth in the pleats (you may get five layers overlapping as you narrow at the waist, especially for thinner gentlemen). But no, the cloth is never cut out of the pleats in a four yard box pleated kilt.

Look at this "bottom up" shot of a box pleated kilt to see what I mean about only three layers of cloth overlapping:

[HeathBar]

Any pics of the work in progress?

Not that these are very interesting, just pics of the basted aprons. But I guess the folks here are pic crazy.

[HeathBar]

I got three pleats done this morning.

[HeathBar]

I finished the pleats this morning.