Formal Buckle Shoes

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I would be concerned that this shoe will not take a glossy shine because the leather seems to have a soft finish. That being the case, it really won't look it's best in a formal setting. It is also just a trifle "costumey" to my eye, although I am sure others will be attracted to its neo-Georgian style, just as some people are attracted to neo-Georgian architecture.

The dress brogue is still, in my opinion, the best choice for formal wear; with a wee bit of searching a nice set of cut steel buckles can usually be picked up for $35-$50, and any reasonably competent shoe repair shop can swap them for the pressed tin buckles for about $10-$20. Patent leather evening pumps with silk bows are another option; for a more distinctive look the silk bows can be swapped for cut steel buckles, as with the dress brogues.

In my closet are three pair of shoes that I wear with Highland attire: a well shined pair of black oxfords, a pair of proper brogues with flaps over the laces, and a pair of dress brogues with cut steel buckles.

I know that there are some gentlemen who advocate the wearing of velvet slippers, but in reality these are dinner shoes, intended to be worn in one's home when entertaining guests or when invited to a smart dinner party. Nothing looks worse at a public function than a gentleman in velvet slippers who has stepped into a puddle with one foot...

[longhuntr74]

...a pair of proper brogues with flaps over the laces...

What does this mean? What sort of flap are you referring to?

[CMcG]

<snip> I would be concerned that this shoe will not take a glossy shine because the leather seems to have a soft finish. That being the case, it really won't look it's best in a formal setting. It is also just a trifle "costumey" to my eye, although I am sure others will be attracted to its neo-Georgian style, just as some people are attracted to neo-Georgian architecture.

What is it about those shoes that looks costumey as compared to the buckle brogues?

Would these ones from MacKenzie Frain be any better?

<snip> Patent leather evening pumps with silk bows are another option; for a more distinctive look the silk bows can be swapped for cut steel buckles, as with the dress brogues.

What I'm thinking is to try and find formal slip on shoes of some sort at my local thrift or second hand shops. I'll then jazz them up with some buckles from eBay. This means I'm somewhat at the mercy of whatever is available...

To this end, what if I could find something like the following. Note I'm not saying these exactly... just something similar.






Finding these sort of shoes would probably be more of a stretch...

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

What is it about those shoes that looks costumey as compared to the buckle brogues?

As I see it, the broad boxed toe, the stacked, undercut, walking heel, and the high-over-the-instep tongue give this shoe an undeniable "George Washington wore these" look, and makes them the perfect candidate for a costume picture set in the 18th century. Dress brogues, on the other hand, are still an accepted item of 21st century formal Highland attire and in that context are no more costumey than a sporran.

Finding these sort of shoes would probably be more of a stretch...

Check with your local tux shop and find out when they are selling off their ex-rental stock. A friend of mine did that last year and bought a nearly new pair of similarly styled shoes for about $35, as I recall.

[CMcG]

MoR, I can tell you that stepping into a puddle with both feet is no picnic, either. My "velvet" slippers are ectually suede, which is just a little sturdier- and it smells even worse when you get it wet.

Are those your infamous skull and crossbone slippers? Something like this:

<snip>

Check with your local tux shop and find out when they are selling off their ex-rental stock. A friend of mine did that last year and bought a nearly new pair of similarly styled shoes for about $35, as I recall.

Good idea!

I've consulted with my ladyfriend and she prefers the slip-on style to the bar and buckle dress brogues. That is rather strong motivation for me in terms of which way I'll go...

[Spartan Tartan]

I've consulted with my ladyfriend and she prefers the slip-on style to the bar and buckle dress brogues. That is rather strong motivation for me in terms of which way I'll go...

That is a GOOD idea as well

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Basically, these are ordinary brogues with a fringed flap over the laces, the purpose of which is to keep the rain from soaking into your shoes. Being a techno-dunderhead I have been unable to post a photo, but if you go to www.houseofbruar.com (or google House of Bruar) and click on "footwear" you'll see what I mean.

[CMcG]

Basically, these are ordinary brogues with a fringed flap over the laces, the purpose of which is to keep the rain from soaking into your shoes. Being a techno-dunderhead I have been unable to post a photo, but if you go to www.houseofbruar.com (or google House of Bruar) and click on "footwear" you'll see what I mean.

Like these from the House of Bruar?

[Jock Scot]

Or, like these rather more rustic ones from Hoggs.

[DWFII]

The buckle shoe was de riguer during the middle 18th and early 19th centuries. So George Washington would probably have worn something similar. As would many at Culloden and the aristocracy of both Scotland and England until about the 1830's.

But the shoe depicted in the first photo of post #1...technically and historically speaking...a poor facsimile. Fundamentally it is a loafer. The buckle is purely decorative and performs no real function in holding the shoe on the foot.

A traditional buckle shoe would have a functional buckle that closed on two "latchets." The buckle itself might be moved between two or three pair of shoes. And if one of the buckles were lost or the latchets wore out, the latchets would be cut short, two holes punched on each stub and the shoe worn as a laced shoe.

The square toe is probably correct for the time period and even up into the late Victorian era. Although the round toe would have been present as well.

The higher heel...especially undercut as it is in the photo...is probably not historically correct. In fact the entire shoe is (in my opinion) a compromise and a sop to modern sensibilities and price/profit considerations.

Made correctly and with modern techniques and materials, however, I believe the buckle shoe looks much better and much more masculine than the Mary Janes depicted in the second photo of post #1. That's just my opinion...for what its worth.