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3rd February 09, 02:47 PM
#1
All I know is that when I was a little kid, I turned the tinsion knob on my mother's sewing machine... She is still reminding me about that thirty plus years later...
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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6th February 09, 12:43 AM
#2
Ya, I can see how a bad foot control on a sewing machine would cause lots of problems. I've had to throw on potter's wheels that have jumpy controls and painted the walls mud.
Somehow a sewing machine seems more dangerous...
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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7th February 09, 11:58 AM
#3
Now what I need to know is whether there is a vernier control for the pedal, so that I could make it go r e e e a l l y slow or just sorta slow, and not jump to "uncontrollably fast for a novice
Try to find out if your machine has an 'electronic' foot control replacement. These days only very low end mechanical sewing machines will have the older non-electronic types of foot control.
Sometimes it's the simple things that drive replacing your machine. I made the jump to computerized when I realized that buttonholes were important.
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7th February 09, 02:25 PM
#4
 Originally Posted by Dixiecat
Try to find out if your machine has an 'electronic' foot control replacement. These days only very low end mechanical sewing machines will have the older non-electronic types of foot control.
Thanks for the hint! This is BTW a "very low end mechanical" machine but that's what I asked for ... I think the real solution is practice.
Last edited by fluter; 7th February 09 at 02:33 PM.
Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon,
gainfully unemployed systems programmer
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7th February 09, 02:28 PM
#5
 Originally Posted by Dixiecat
[snip] I made the jump to computerized when I realized that buttonholes were important. 
My sister's Bernina, which she uses for machine embroidery, networks to her PC but has a small screen on the machine itself. You tell it you want a buttonhole, then place the button up against the screen and the machine calculates the buttonhole dimensions automatically. . . scary.
"HAL, please lift the presser foot. . . HAL? HAL??"
Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].
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9th February 09, 12:06 AM
#6
I think the real solution is practice
Well, yes and no. Practice will definitely help, but the foot itself will never give power in an even way. Part of the problem is that when you're trying to drive the machine at a slow speed, you're not getting full power to the motor. An 'electronic' foot always delivers full power to the motor even at low speeds. You may find that you'll have to help the the machine along with your hand on the fly wheel to get the needle to penetrate the fabric when stitching at slower speeds.
You tell it you want a buttonhole, then place the button up against the screen and the machine calculates the buttonhole dimensions automatically. . . scary.
I've taught at a lot of sewing shows and I've seen some fantastic things that home sewing machines can do, but when I saw that feature come out I knew that someday, I'd have one of those.....that was 3yrs ago. Unfortunately, when a new machine costs more than my 3yr old Mazda.....Seriously, some machines will run over $6000!
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15th February 09, 11:07 PM
#7
I just got done installing a new ( NOS off ebay) Needle Rod into my Singer 301a, getting it back online after years of sitting in the basement.
After getting in back on line I too had bad birdsnesting, and spent the better part of the evening adjusting bobbin. thread/needle and foot pressure untill I finally had a good stitch. I am also sewing with a heavy thread, ( upholstery thread ) so that is also a determining factor. All you can do is play with settings untill it falls into place.
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16th February 09, 10:08 AM
#8
I got my $900.00 Phaff for $400.00 they traded it in for a newer model. My old singer had trouble with multiple layers of heavy fabric. the new one can sew through 14 layers of denim or a lead washer and leather (demo at the store) Though I'm talented and have managed to break mine a few times we have made some adjustments and its working well now.
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25th February 09, 12:25 PM
#9
I had a similar issue on 2 machines. When i got the second machine I did the guy thing, try it first, THEN watch the CD that came with it. Sure enough it shows the bird's nest and says it's bobbin tension is the solution. It is also related to the thread in that different types of thread will slide more or less easily through the bobbin so you should check it each time to replace the bobbin.
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25th February 09, 02:05 PM
#10
Sure enough it shows the bird's nest and says it's bobbin tension is the solution..
You'd be surprised at how little the bobbin tension is the culprit with birds nesting issues. In fact, bobbin tension is the LAST thing you should ever play with. I'm very surprised that your CD even mentions this as 'the solution.' At the factory, the screw in the bobbin is set using standard home sewing machine thread.
For 90% of home sewing machines once the bobbin tension is set, you don't have to change it unless you stray from the norm of sewing thread. Which is your every day Gutermann or Coats brand or similar threads. If you're using 3 for a $1 type threads or serger threads in your machine, then you are doing your sewing machine a grave injustice and you may end up having to screw around with the bobbin tension which then changes how your top thread tension reacts.
If you decide to use thread that's thicker or thinner than the norm in the bobbin, then yes, you will need to adjust the bobbin tension screw. Thicker thread will need it loosened, thinner will need it tighter (lefty loosey, etc.). Turn the screw only 1/8" at a time and I'd advise that you mark the original position before you start.
I myself have two bobbin cases. One to use with everyday thread, the other for use with specialty threads such as lingerie thread, or nylon embroidery bobbin threads. This way I don't have to mess with my 'good' bobbin and screw things up. You see, playing around with the bobbin tension messes with the way the top thread tension works too and you end up adjusting the heck out of things.
In home sewing machines, the top thread tension is engaged when the presser foot is lowered and disengaged when the presser foot is lifted. This tension can usually be adjusted by some sort of control. When you pile up a great thickness of fabric under the presser foot, you are in fact lifting the foot and may be lifting it enough to slightly disengage the top tension which will end up birds nesting down below. Basically, it's the same effect you would get if you loosened the top thread tension too much. You can counter this piling effect slightly by tightening the pressure at which the presser foot presses down on the fabric. Usually this is a screw slot at the top of the presser foot arm. Some machines have a dial with a + or - instead.
Sorry to be so long-winded. I could teach a whole course on tensions...
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