Origin and Use of "Dress" Tartans

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I, for one, would see dancer's tartans in a different (but related) category than typical dress tartans. Though many dancers wear standard dress tartans, most of the dance tartans so-called are not really clan tartans at all, but fancy variations on clan tartans. Because they have so much white in the design (typically) they are viewed in the same category as dress tartans by many, but I think dance tartans deserve their own category.

If you take a look through the dance tartans provided by mills such as Dalgleish, you'll see a lot of colors you don't ordinarily see in clan tartans. A lot of pastels, colors such as turquoise, pink, aquamarine, etc. And, with one exception that I know of (MacGregor) these dance tartans have no official standing with the clan whatsoever. They are simply fashion tartans, designed for dancing.

Actual dress tartans, on the other hand, are often recognized by the clan (either officially or simply by popular usage). And they tend to stay closer in color to the original clan tartan, though with the added white.

And I would say that the origin of these tartans is the eighteenth century women's arisaid fashion, in which most of the tartans were white or cream based. Because this was originally a ladies' fashion, many consider modern dress tartans to be primarily for women's wear. That's fine. However, there is no objective reason why a man should not choose to wear a tartan simply because there is a lot of white in it. So I say if you are a man and want to wear a white-based tartan, go for it.

In addition to the example of Prince Charles wearing the Dress Stewart, way back in the 1840s R. R. MacIan painted his portrait of the MacPherson wearing a feilidh-mor in the dress tartan for that clan.


Then (like everything else regarding tartan) there are exceptions to the rule; so-called "dress" tartans that have no white in them whatsoever, and are simply called "dress" by analogy because of their light or bright colors. The examples David gave of MacMillan and MacLeod, as well as Barclay are prime examples of this. One that no one has mentioned so far is the Dress Fraser, which is the exact same tartan as the standard red clan tartan. For some reason unknown (at least to me) this tartan has traditionally been referred to both as the "clan" tartan as well as the "dress" tartan, and either apellation is viewed as correct.

[Dixiecat]

Thank you Matt for bringing a little sense into this discussion. I would never deny that these days the idea of 'dress' tartans have gone a little wild. Who ever thought that the Menzies tartan would be recreated as 'Special Dress Cerise Menzies' for instance.

Since men are now considering their own dance as something beneath them (and there have been a few on this forum who have looked down on dancers) the women are taking over and the mills are now catering for them. Those new tartans with such colours as turquoise, cerise, raspberry, fushia, lavender, etc. are being introduced to entice the new dancers. The young and the 'hip' and the female. That's one side of the coin of white background dress tartans. I would consider that as the 'highland dance fashion tartan'. However, there are plenty of other dress tartans that have NOT been designed for this market and are more than suitable for men to wear. For both dancing AND formal dress wear. I was a little upset to have davidlpope lump every white dress tartan into one category and categorically say that every one of them was for women and seemingly belittle not only the tartans, but the people who wear them.

What seems to be forgotten is that most of the modern tartans got their start the very same way that the new dance tartans have. That is, as something pulled out of the air by the mill and called McSomething or other. Some of you wear the XMarks tartan and proudly so, but how is the creation of that tartan any different from the new dance tartans? Both were created for a MARKET. To look down on dance tartans is to belittle most of the tartans that you gentlemen now wear.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

... the women are taking over [Highland dancing] and the mills are now catering for them. Those new tartans with such colours as turquoise, cerise, raspberry, fushia, lavender, etc. are being introduced to entice the new dancers. The young and the 'hip' and the female.

This statement would seem to underscore the sentiment behind the OPs original statement that many "dress tartans" are really intended as womens wear.

[Dixiecat]

This statement would seem to underscore the sentiment behind the OPs original statement that many "dress tartans" are really intended as womens wear.

Unfortunately, you are misinterpreting not only my point, but also the OPs original statement. Which is:

I, personally, stay well clear of categories #2 and #3 above, since I think these tartans are designed for women's clothing. I think category #1 is fine for men's wear, although they are often very vibrant.

What he is saying is that anything with a white background is UNSUITABLE for a man.

What I am trying to point out and I apologise if I have clouded my point with my discussion of the NEW dance tartans, is that NOT all tartans with a white background are intended for womens wear ONLY. I can't believe you BOTH ignored not only HRH Prince Charles wearing Dress Stewart, but also two male dancers of a past era (i.e. long before Charles wore his in that pic) wearing dress tartans.

I certainly think that there are categories of dress tartans, but I think someone with a little more knowledge and less bias should be proposing those categories.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Unfortunately, you are misinterpreting not only my point, but also the OPs original statement. Which is:



What he is saying is that anything with a white background is UNSUITABLE for a man.

What I am trying to point out and I apologise if I have clouded my point with my discussion of the NEW dance tartans, is that NOT all tartans with a white background are intended for womens wear ONLY. I can't believe you BOTH ignored not only HRH Prince Charles wearing Dress Stewart, but also two male dancers of a past era (i.e. long before Charles wore his in that pic) wearing dress tartans.

I certainly think that there are categories of dress tartans, but I think someone with a little more knowledge and less bias should be proposing those categories.

PM sent.

[Lyle1]

From what I've read recently, the dress tartan was simply a variant of the "clan" tartan (as opposed to the chief's tartan) and was worn for dressy and "state occasions." If it was only, or primarily, worn for special occasions, I don't think the lighter colors would present a major soiling problem. I was looking at references from the late 1800's and early 1900's, and I did not see any reference to the dress tartan being a ladies' tartan. I did however, see several references to the head of a clan wearing the dress tartan for a special occasion, and elsewhere of the chief wearing his reserved tartan and the others in the clan wearing the dress tartan. It would be interesting if try to determine where the myth about the dress tartan being for ladies originated. From what I've read, at least 100 years ago, that attitude was not common.

[Phil]

From what I've read recently, the dress tartan was simply a variant of the "clan" tartan (as opposed to the chief's tartan) and was worn for dressy and "state occasions."

Exactly so. Nowadays we tend to just wear the one tartan for all occasions but the well-to-do in bygone years would have a kilt in the "dress" version of their tartan for formal evening occasions. I don't know where all this confusion about women's clothing comes from.

[davidlpope]

I was a little upset to have davidlpope lump every white dress tartan into one category and categorically say that every one of them was for women and seemingly belittle not only the tartans, but the people who wear them.

PM sent in hopes of an off-line reconciliation.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Just to avoid any confusion, the gentleman pictured above is Captain Ewen MacPherson, the 23rd Chief, and he is wearing (according to McIan who painted the picture) "the grey plaid of Badenach", today known as MacPherson Hunting. This sett is different than the white MacPherson tartan which is reserved for the exclusive use of the chief.

[JSFMACLJR]

Just to avoid any confusion, the gentleman pictured above is Captain Ewen MacPherson, the 23rd Chief, and he is wearing (according to McIan who painted the picture) "the grey plaid of Badenach", today known as MacPherson Hunting. This sett is different than the white MacPherson tartan which is reserved for the exclusive use of the chief.

Here is Cluny wearing the said tartan: