Great Kilt Question

[figheadair]

I wonder, were ANY philabegs actually made from "cut down plaids" or simply derived from the quite obvious step of NOT joining two lengths of tartan together...?

Absolutely. It rather nicely puts the Rawlinson story in the rubbish box. It doesn't take much thought not to join in the first place and I suspect that the change is more a reflection of the change in agricultural/social practice around the end of the C17th.

[Woodsheal]

Absolutely. It rather nicely puts the Rawlinson story in the rubbish box. It doesn't take much thought not to join in the first place and I suspect that the change is more a reflection of the change in agricultural/social practice around the end of the C17th.

Agreed!

Anyways, my point re: length, was that if 3.5-4 yards was adequate for wrapping one's lower self in a pleated philabeg, it stands to reason that a full plaid of the same length made a similarly adequate garment....

[figheadair]

Agreed!

Anyways, my point re: length, was that if 3.5-4 yards was adequate for wrapping one's lower self in a pleated philabeg, it stands to reason that a full plaid of the same length made a similarly adequate garment....

Brian,

You may well be right. We just don't know but what we do know is that Highland troops complained that there was insufficient when the War Office tried to cut the amount from 4 yds.

I've never worn one less than 4 yds. Many years ago I spent a week crossing the Cairngorms and Monadhliath Mountains in a 4yd plaid which was quite practical.

The other thing that may have had a bearing on the amount was the weight (quality) of the cloth. The 6yd one that I looked at last week was incredibly fine, equivalent to a 10-11 oz cloth and must have been a gentleman’s plaid. I know of 2, perhaps 3 coarser plaids that I plan to examine over the next few months and it will be interesting to see how much cloth they contain.

Peter

[Woodsheal]

Peter,

Indeed, 4 yards or so seems about right for all-round comfort and utility. Mine is about 4.5 yds. I imagine poor fellows and soldiers were able to manage with less (even if they didn't like it!).

I wonder about that 6-yarder you describe as being "incredibly fine." Could this be the sort of plaid that would be folded double (as mentioned by Stewart of Garth) for wearing? That would add to the warmth and "weather-proofness" of the garment....

[figheadair]

Peter,

Indeed, 4 yards or so seems about right for all-round comfort and utility. Mine is about 4.5 yds. I imagine poor fellows and soldiers were able to manage with less (even if they didn't like it!).

I wonder about that 6-yarder you describe as being "incredibly fine." Could this be the sort of plaid that would be folded double (as mentioned by Stewart of Garth) for wearing? That would add to the warmth and "weather-proofness" of the garment....

Well I suppose it could be but there's no evidence such as a warped or damaged join to suggest that it was the case. Perhaps plaids of this quality/quantity were worn pleated all the way around like that worn by Lord George Murray (below) or Lord Duffus.

[Ryan Ross]

If you want to be totally "historically correct", of course, you'll want two lengths of single-width tartan sewn together. As a matter of convenience, though, you might want to just use double-width fabric and mention it verbally during your presentation. If you haven't seen it, you might also want to check out Matt Newsome's article on the possibility of the "great kilt" having been worn with loops and a drawstring: http://albanach.org/drawstring.htm

Length-wise. . .I have a 34-inch waist and have found a length of 4 & 1/2 to 5 yards of double-width tartan quite sufficient.

Word.

Actually, not 6 ells of double tartan, but 6 ells of tartan doubled, for a total length of 3 ells, or about 3-3.5 yards total length - depending on whether you're talking about Scottish (37") or English (45") ells! This was the size plaid issued to Highland enlisted troops in the British army. Civilian plaids could be a bit more generous, but usually no more than 5 yards.

Remember, the tartan fabric came off the hand looms about 27" wide, so two lengths had to be joined together lengthwise to make the completed plaid, with an approx. 54" width. So, 6 ells of tartan yields a 3 ells in length plaid.

Double word.

Listen to these folks, and you'll do fine. Oh, and don't mention anything about pleating the thing out on the ground. Historical resources and logical thought dictate against that being the common method for donning the plaid. Think more along the lines of bunching the cloth up, belting it on, and getting yourself covered up...all while standing.

Best of luck to you!

[Woodsheal]

Well I suppose it could be but there's no evidence such as a warped or damaged join to suggest that it was the case. Perhaps plaids of this quality/quantity were worn pleated all the way around like that worn by Lord George Murray (below) or Lord Duffus.

That makes sense. Contrast Lord George's plaid - with it's numerous, carefully arranged pleats, with this image of Highland soldiers carefully rendered by a German artist. Their plaids show only a few wide box pleats, or gathers, at the back, obviously indicating the use of less yardage than a "gent" like Lord George!

[Kilted Hiker]

Thanks everyone! I've finish sewing and am pretty happy with the results. If anyone wishes to continue adding advise or information about the great kilt I would appreciate it.

[figheadair]

I wonder, were ANY philabegs actually made from "cut down plaids" or simply derived from the quite obvious step of NOT joining two lengths of tartan together...?

Was discussing this with Bob Martin and he made some interesting points which seem pretty obvious and which I though worth sharing

how was it determined that what was "cut from plaids" wound up as feileadh-begs? yes, i agree. the only old kilts, i've seen and examined, made from the old cloths were sewn kilts, albeit the 4yd and less variety, and were known setts. there was no cutting down of a plaid for the feileadh-beg. it was made using just a single web of cloth, most usually having some cloth draping over the belt. the full plaide being 2 webs sewn together. the tartan of early feileadh-begs would probably be an unknown sett before the development of clan tartans. that is, not a clan one. i would say, unless there was some identifying evidence that a piece of tartan was used in fact as a feileadh-beg, there probably would be no way of telling its use. in portraits showing the belted plaide separate from the feileadh-beg, of which there are many, in a named sett, this was the case. to me, this would be the only way a known tartan would wind up as a feileadh-beg.