Pouring Pewter Inlay

[Kerr the Walker]

First off: I tried to come up with a word for Inlay that started with a "P" but had no luck.

On to the question...

I've seen several threads here and there on pewter work for bolsters etc and think I want to try my luck at it. Before I go at it with a bolster, I'd like to try some inlay.

Here's my question: Is there a minimum depth/width of a carved groove that the pewter will fill? i.e. - if I carve the design too shallow will the molten pewter not adhere to the wood?

Thanks!

[DWFII]

There might be a way to do it...I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. But I don't think pouring pewter against wood is going to be successful. I found that when pouring a bolster against wood, the residual moisture in the wood coming into contact with the molten pewter created steam, and that, in turn, created problems...with a capital "P". The steam tried to vent through the pewter causing bubbles and preventing a tight seating of the pewter against the wood.

Better to pour the pewter into a plaster (?) mold that is the same shape and size of your proposed inlay and then fit it into the carved wood rebate. Pewter is soft enough that it can be burnished/pushed into any undercut recess in the wood pretty successfully, if with some effort.

Again, I'm not an expert so take all this with a grain of salt.

That said, the whole idea has got my own creative juices flowing. Thanks for that.

[Kerr the Walker]

Interesting.....hadn't thought of the moisture in the wood being a problem. I wonder if baking out the piece before pouring would help dry out the wood at all....

This is more of a creative exercise and experiment than anything else. I've got a whole mess of scrap lying around that I can play with before I actually start pouring molten metal onto any final products.

Happy to help in the creative juices dept.

There might be a way to do it...I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. But I don't think pouring pewter against wood is going to be successful. I found that when pouring a bolster against wood, the residual moisture in the wood coming into contact with the molten pewter created steam, and that, in turn, created problems...with a capital "P". The steam tried to vent through the pewter causing bubbles and preventing a tight seating of the pewter against the wood.

Better to pour the pewter into a plaster (?) mold that is the same shape and size of your proposed inlay and then fit it into the carved wood rebate. Pewter is soft enough that it can be burnished/pushed into any undercut recess in the wood pretty successfully, if with some effort.

Again, I'm not an expert so take all this with a grain of salt.

That said, the whole idea has got my own creative juices flowing. Thanks for that.

[Colonel MacNeal]

You could also consider silver leaf. It does not require great depth, and can adhere to delicate carvings.

[Kerr the Walker]

You could also consider silver leaf. It does not require great depth, and can adhere to delicate carvings.

I'm intrigued. I'll have to do some reading and see how one would go about it.

Thanks for the heads up...

[Joe Gondek]

I've poured a lot of nose caps on muzzle loaders without much trouble
but gunstocks have a low moisture content

[tyger]

Without seeing exactly what you are trying to do, I hazard to give input. However, surf for "solder inlay" and you will find this technic. Although molten solder is the standard in this inlay technic, one could use solid solder. One way to achieve inlay directly into wood would be to chase (carve) your figure with a slight undercut, inlay your slighly oversized solder strip, and work the solder flush to the wood. If reading urges you onward, try doing this on some scraps first, to gain your hand. Good success!

[Kilted in Maine]

surf for "solder inlay"

I googled and found this...

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/198

Use of tinted epoxy is an interesting technique... (below taken from above link....)

" *One Last Method to Consider”
Epoxy Inlay can be quite fun, and might have a longer life on your breakfast table. I have successfully colored clear expoxy with a variety of paint colors, and metal shavings, to use for inlay.

I have made epoxy look like ivory, and have even used three or four colors to mix a fake looking turquoise color, and have made it look “metalish” by using silver paint and metal filings. I have also used gold paint and brass filings. I have used copper paint and copper filings.

Epoxy won’t have any of the problems you have with the metal in either of the other techniques, and you might find it works for what you want.

To color epoxy, just use any type of paint. I use acrylic hobby paints that come in endless colors, and either use them right out of the bottle, or mix some to get the color I want. I mix the epoxy according to the instructions, and drop a single drop of the paint and stir. One drop of paint will be enough color to adequately color a spot of epoxy on your mixing board the size of a silver dollar (remember those?). I learned this from the pool cue maker, as he finally explained to me that the “ivory” inlay was not ivory, only cream tinted clear epoxy.

The only caution I have for you in this material technique is that is seems that the more paint that is introduced in ratio to the epoxy, the quicker it cures, and the more rubbery the final product is. I use the paint sparingly, and figure if I am using 5-minute epoxy, I have about half of that time to mix and put it in place. Once I discovered that trick, I haven’t had any trouble. From then on, I have had a lot of fun with it."

[tyger]

I googled and found this...

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/198

Use of tinted epoxy is an interesting technique...

" *One Last Method to Consider”
Epoxy Inlay can be quite fun, and might have a longer life on your breakfast table. I have successfully colored clear expoxy with a variety of paint colors, and metal shavings, to use for inlay.

]"

Yep, that epoxy works. You can mix darn near anything with it, even stone chips and stone powder, even glass will work too! I am impressed with your work, and sure enjoyed your website.

[Kilted in Maine]

Yep, that epoxy works. You can mix darn near anything with it, even stone chips and stone powder, even glass will work too! I am impressed with your work, and sure enjoyed your website.

Thanks but No, I cant take credit for the work, I just cut and pasted the relevant section. I wish I had that skill!!!

I see how it is confusing and will edit my post.